This Man's Kitchen

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2010-03-14T16:37:00.001-07:00

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Watch: This Man's Kitchen Beef and Barley Stew

2010-03-05T09:26:00.000-08:00

We shot a new episode of This Man's Kitchen. Hooray for that.

This Man's Kitchen: Beef & Barley Stew from This Man's Kitchen on Vimeo.

Interview: Hal B. Klein Talks To Mr. Media

2010-03-02T15:59:00.000-08:00

Have a listen to my interview on Mr. Media.

I sound very smart.

Smothered Pork Chops

2010-02-25T09:46:00.000-08:00

Had a few friends over for a great soul food dinner the other night. The highlight? Well, all of it. But the smothered pork chops I made were the centerpiece.

Add, to a medium hot pan:
2 Onions, thinly sliced

Cook for 8 minutes, stirring frequently.
Onions should be translucent, not brown. If you hear a loud sizzle, reduce heat slightly.

Add:
4 Cloves Garlic, smashed
2 Teaspoons Salt

Cook an additional 3 minutes.
Remove from pan.

Turn heat to high, and then brown:
1.5 Pound Pork Chops

Remove pork chops from pan.
Deglaze pan with:
1 Bottle Good Beer
*I used Newcastle.

Add:
1 Cup Chicken Stock
1/2 Can Cola
2 Tablespoons Apricot Jam

1 Tablespoon Apple Cider Vinegar

2 Teaspoons Dried Thyme
2 Teaspoons Mustard
Small Handful Juniper Berries (optional)

Return pork chops, onions, and garlic to the pan.

Cover pan.
Reduce heat to low.
Let simmer 2 hours, turning occasionally.

Add:
5 Springs Fresh Marjoram
5 Springs Fresh Thyme
2 Teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce

Thicken sauce.
Impress your friends.

Pizza Madness

2010-02-22T16:51:00.000-08:00

I'm obsessed with pizza. Like Ed Levine obsessed. Possibly not quite as obsessed as This Guy, but I'm up there. At home in Los Angeles, it's tough to satisfy the craving. Pizzeria Mozza might have the best crust I've ever tasted, but the sauce is imperfect, and a personal sized pie never manages to satisfy like a proper sized slice. Joe's Pizza in Santa Monica reminds me that I'm missing Joe's Pizza in Greenwich Village. I'm a crap baker, so until I meet an adorable pastry girl, making my own is a challenge.

I had planned on a eating a wide variety of food on my most recent trip to NYC. (By wide, I mean that in addition to pizza, I would eat deli, Chinese, Indian, and bagels...) Turns out, what I ate was mostly pizza.

I ate like a champ. Twice, I visited three pizza joints in a single day. I visited old favorites (Sal & Carmine, I love you with all my heart), and randomly found a terrific slice in Brooklyn (the Grandma at Vinny's Pizza).

There was a moment or two when I thought I was satisfied. But those moments passed quickly. Back in California now, and the pizza dreams have started again.

At the Farmers' Market: Grapefruit

2010-02-18T07:29:00.000-08:00

I always thought of grapefruits as horrible softballs of sourness that grandparents eat for breakfast and fad dieters believe are spiritual. And there certainly is something to that stereotype; they are indeed sour & astringent, fad dieters love them for their high lycopene and vitamin C content (as well as a mythical, yet unproven nutrient found only in grapefruit that, when combined with protein causes rapid weight loss), and, as they are grown primarily in Florida, many old people eat them for breakfast.

But there is more to the grapefruit than sour old fads. They're in abundance right now at Los Angeles farmers' markets (CA is third in the nation in grapefruit production, behind Florida and Texas), so it made sense to give some a try.

Oro Blanco: Larger than a softball, the Oro Blanco is a white grapefruit with lemon-green skin. Nearly half of the fruit is pith, with means it will keep at least a week on the counter, even longer in the refrigerator. The sections of flesh are small, and there are a few seeds. When you cut the Oro Blanco open, you'll be hit with a strong citrus smell, almost like surface cleaner. The taste is acidic and astringent, almost as mouth puckering as a lemon. There is a mild sweetness, but I found I needed to add a pinch of sugar to eat the whole thing.

White Marsh: Lemon colored, medium sized grapefruit. The white marsh smells refreshing even before it's cut into. There isn't much rind to it, so store in the refrigerator. The fruit separates easily into individual sections. The flavor is like natural sour candy- it's very tart, but the tartness is pleasantly balanced with sweetness. It was the most complex and interesting of the bunch.

Pink: Slightly smaller than a softball, with deep orange skin flecked with pink. The interior is pink. When you cut the pink grapefruit open, you get a natural burst of grapefruit room spray. Sadly, that was my favorite part of the experience. The fruit itself was acidic and astringent. For me, pink grapefruits are best as part of a juice blend.

Ruby Red: The most popular commercial grapefruit. Sadly, none were available at the farmers' market, so I picked one up at the grocery store (via Texas). The Ruby Red is about the size of a softball, and has a bright orange outside. One the inside, it's deep pink. The flavor is very sweet- it's the least complex of all the grapefruits I tried- but, it's also the most accessible to those new to eating grapefruits.

Pomello: The basketball sized father of the grapefruit. Lemon yellow on the outside, the orange-yellow inside is buried beneath a wall of pith, making it a perfect storage fruit (if you have room for it). It has a soft, sweet flavor, with just a touch of astringency. Very refreshing!

So try a grapefruit. They're great for you, and taste better than you might think.

Brunswick Stew

2010-02-11T11:30:00.000-08:00

I have no idea how this wonderful creation avoided my radar for so long. I love southern food, and this stew is a perfect example of why I love it so much.

Brunswick Stew has been cooked in Virginia for at least 150 years, though it's quite likely versions of the recipe go back at least another 100 years. Brunswick County in Georgia also lays claim to the recipe, but historical evidence seems to support Virginia.

Originally cooked with squirrel, the thick stew is now made primarily with chicken- rabbit and pork often being added as well. Like most traditional dishes, everybody and their uncle has their own version, so feel free to experiment. You can use my recipe, or you can work via poem:

First catch your chicken, clean and cut them.
And in an iron pot you put them
And water nearly to the top
And in it salt and pepper drop
Boil slowly. Your tomatoes peel;
Put in a shin or so of veal;
And for the flavor, bear in mind,
A chunk of middling with the rind.
Next some onions you throw in,
The young and tender skin,
And butter beans do not forget;
And what is more important yet;
The corn, but do not be too fast,
For you must cut and add it last;
For better than the flour you'll find it'll do
To give some thickness to the stew.
Some lemon peel cut very thin
May now be added and stirred in,
And err it's taken from the fire,
Give it a dash of Worcestershire,
And soon you'll hear it's praises ring,
This is a dish fit for a King.
--Virginia S. Woodroof, 1930 Here's what I did: Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes:1 1/2 Cups Onion, diced 1 Cup Carrots, diced1/2 Cup Celery, diced Add:One Whole Chicken, cooked and shredded1 Pound Smoked Pork Shoulder, shredded1 1/2 Cups Crushed Tomato1 1/2 Cups Chicken Stock1/4 Cup Whiskey 1 Cup Potato, diced2 Teaspoons Dried Thyme2 Teaspoons Black Pepper1 Teaspoon Hot Sauce1 Teaspoon Chili Powder1 Teaspoon Mustard Powder2 Bay Leaves Simmer 45 minutes.Add:1 Cup Frozen Sweet Corn1 Cup Frozen Lima Beans1 Tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce Simmer 15 minutes.Serve. *You have options with the chicken and pork. You could boil the chicken first, making a chicken soup that you use later for the dish. Or you can oven roast it. Or smoke it. Or you can buy a pre-cooked one. Same with the pork- I was able to find a wonderfully smoked pork shoulder. This saves a lot of time!

Frozen Food Test: Pacific Natural Fire-Baked Thin Crust Pepperoni Pizza

2010-02-08T11:44:00.000-08:00

I was wandering through the frozen food isle the other day, thinking about how long it had been since I'd eaten anything from it. So I thought it might be an interesting idea to test the quality of frozen foods these days.

First on the list: Hal B. Klein eats a frozen pizza. I chose the Pacific Natural Fire-Baked Thin Crust, with pepperoni. If I'm going to eat a convenience food, it might as well start with a pizza, right?

Pacific Natural is an organic food company located in Oregon. They are known mostly for their organic soups & broths, and have now expanded into boxes teas/mates/nut drinks, as well as frozen pot pies & pizzas.

Pros:

Good Ingredients: Pacific Natural's pizza is made with better stuff than you'll find in most frozen pizzas. Crust & sauce contain no high fructose corn syrup. Cheese is made from actual cheese.
Pepperoni: Nitrate free pepperoni. Excellent flavor with a hint of spice. Exactly what you want in a pizza topping. (When you want a topping- I'm generally a purist!)
Perfect amount of cheese

Cons:

Topping to the edge: A pizza needs an edge. How am I going to hold it if you top it all the way?
Not actually a thin crust: You can't call your pizza thin crust, and then not deliver on it. While we're talking crust- it didn't have any give. Too soft, for sure. This is the area that needs most improvement.
Sauce too sweet.
Took longer to cook than advertised: Box instructions suggest cooking for 12-14 minutes at 400 degrees. After 12, the pizza looked very undercooked. At 14, it seemed edible, but still not perfect. I ended up leaving it in the oven for 16 minutes. That's a little too long for something meant to be convenient. One could have a pizza delivered in nearly the same amount of time.

Overall:

Not bad, but it didn't make me feel all giddy inside, either. Pacific Natural is trying to build a reputation for wholesome foods; however, unlike their soups, teas, and pies, the "artisan" pizzas contain no organic or sustainable ingredients. Also, they are factory made, which makes them not artisan at all, and I don't like cheeseball slogans.

Would I get it again? Too soon too tell. My frozen pizza experience is still too limited. It's a step up from Mama Celeste, at least. But is there really a frozen pizza that will ever satisfy my pizza obsession?

Hearst Ranch Flank Steak

2010-02-02T16:11:00.000-08:00

I met Brian Kenny, manager of Hearst Ranch Beef, at the Foodbuzz weekend last November. He took part in a conversation on grass fed beef, and the workings of Hearst Ranch, that had me all kinds of excited about the future of beef in America.

A few weeks later, we followed up with a phone conversation. Kenny spoke more of Hearst's commitment to careful stewardship of the land. His philosophy (one that I share) is that cows reared on a natural diet, living a stress free life, produce better meat. We also spoke about Kenny's innovative approach to marketing better beef by supplying convention centers and other large venues.

I love free things, and I love steak, so imagine my happiness when I was offered a gift card for Hearst Ranch beef. This was very nice indeed.

It's one of those strange SoCal days when it seems perfectly sensible to grill in February. So I made a little spice mix, and put a flank steak over the hot hot hot coals. This beef is fantastic.

Pat one Flank Steak with:
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce, per side

Rub both sides with spice mix.
I used:
2 Tsp. Salt
2 Tsp. Sugar
1 Tsp. Celery Salt
1 Tsp. Black Pepper
1 Tsp. Garlic Powder
1 Tsp. Onion Powder
1/2 Tsp. Cumin
1/2 Tsp. Chili Powder
1/2 Tsp. Ground Mustard
Don't overseason. Or underseason.

Let rest for at least one hour, up to twelve hours.

Grill over very hot coals for five minutes per side.
Let rest five minutes before slicing.

*Let the meat come to room temperature before grilling. You'll notice an improvement in the texture.
*You could cook this on a gas grill, or even broil it, but coals are best for this one. I even added a few wood chunks, too!

*Ask for grass fed beef at your grocery store. If they don't carry it, tell them they should. Then walk away, without buying any industrial beef. You can order directly from Hearst if you're having trouble finding well raised cows near you.

Chicken Variation #3: Simplicity

2010-01-28T11:20:00.000-08:00

Sometimes you'll see a recipe that called for pre-cooked chicken. This is a simple way to do it. Cook a bunch, and keep them in your freezer. This way you'll always have a base you can build on. (Or just squeeze a little lemon over it, and eat as it is. Nothing wrong with simple!)

Start with:
Chicken Breasts

Rub with:
Olive Oil

Dust with:
Salt
Pepper
Garlic Powder

Bake in a 425 degree oven for 14 minutes, turning once.
Or grill it. High heat, same timing.

Great for:
Really Easy Soup
Penne Pesto with Chicken

Garlic Broccoli

2010-01-19T11:16:00.000-08:00

It's no wonder so many people hate broccoli. The superdupermega vitamin-packed vegetable is almost always prepared as if it were old shoes. Boiled to death, steamed soft and mushy. Well, no more.

Add, to a hot pan:
One Teaspoon Clarified Butter or Vegetable Oil

Give the oil 30 seconds to heat up, and then add:
1/2 Pound Broccoli Florets

Saute for about 4 minutes, until sides of broccoli begin to brown.
Add:
2 Cloves Garlic, chopped

Saute one minute.
Add:
1/4 Cup Chicken Stock
1 Teaspoon Rice Wine Vinegar
Pinch Salt
Pinch Fresh Nutmeg (Optional)

Cook two minutes, or until liquids reduce by half.

Lemony Leftover Chicken

2010-01-11T11:04:00.000-08:00

What do you do when you grill/bake/fry too many chicken breasts? Sure, you could eat the leftovers as they are--cold chicken is great. Or, you could take five minutes and transform your leftovers into something totally new.

Cut, into chunks:
Leftover Chicken Breast

Add chicken to a hot pan with:
One Clove Garlic, chopped
Two Tablespoons Fresh Meyer Lemon Juice
One Tablespoon Honey
Cook for two minutes.

Add:
Two teaspoons butter
Cook one more minute.

Finish with:
Handful Chopped Italian Parsley

*If you can't find Meyer lemons, use the citrus juice of your choice. Oranges are especially nice with this.

Vacation

2009-12-20T19:37:00.000-08:00

Off to South America. New posts coming in January 2010. Sweet.

Maple Bacon Ice Cream

2009-12-16T11:05:00.000-08:00

Who knew a dessert could be so polarizing? Everyone agreed that the maple ice cream was a great success. The addition of bacon, however, was more controversial. Some people loved the smokey & salty contrast, while others were freaked out by having little bits of meat in their dessert.

Heat, in a small saucepan:
1.5 Cups Milk
1.5 Cups Heavy Cream
.5 Cup Pure Maple Syrup
1.5 Tablespoons Sugar
1 Tablespoon Vanilla Extract

Allow mixture to cool, and then run through ice cream maker.
Meanwhile, cook, until very crisp:
6 Slices Bacon

Break bacon into small bits.
Stir into ice cream.
Freeze 15 minutes.

Really Easy Soup

2009-12-11T13:42:00.000-08:00

Add to a pot:
1 1/2 Cups Chicken Stock
1/2 Cup Pureed Tomato
2 Carrots, diced
1 Onion, diced
1 Cup Broccoli Florets
2 Teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Two Cooked Chicken Breasts, diced

Simmer for 30 minutes.
Add salt and pepper as desired.

Roasted Butternut Squash

2009-12-04T11:15:00.000-08:00

One of the things I miss most about living in the east coast is having some kind of winter. Not a full winter or anything, just a little bit of cold. In Los Angeles, that hardly happens. Since it's early December, I decided to make it feel like winter a little bit by roasting the ultimate winter vegetable, squash. Added bonus- this side dish is stupidly easy to make.

Split in half, and then seed:
One Butternut Squash

Place squash on a roasting pan.
Roast in a 375 degree oven for about 45 minutes, until squash is tender.

Remove flesh from squash, and mix in:
2 Teaspoons Butter
1 Teaspoon Pure Maple Syrup
1 Teaspoon Salt
Fresh Grated Nutmeg (about 1/4 teaspoon)

If you want to get all fancy-pants, you can return the squash to its shell and serve it like that.

Gravy Train

2009-11-27T18:17:00.000-08:00

You might want to bookmark this little tidbit for next year's Thanksgiving, because it was the finest turkey gravy I've ever made. This is yet another proof of how a little bit of playing with your food can take you someplace special.

Started by straining:
Turkey Pan Juices

The turkey had been stuffed with onions, sage, orange, celery, thyme, and garlic.
It had been brined and dried before roasting.
One and one half hours before end of cooking, I poured .5 can Coca-Cola over bird.

*You're think crazy thoughts now. I know. Coke? WTF?! This is the only time per year that I have a coke. Hey, it helps make amazing gravy. After I pour half the can, I take a sip from the rest and remind myself how horrible this stuff is!

Once all the juices are strained, allow them to sit so that the fat can rise to the top. This will happen fairly quickly. Remove all fat, reserving 4 tablespoons in a small pan.

Now, for the roasting pan: Remove all big bits of leftover skin and gristle.
Then add:
3/4 Cup White Wine
1/2 Freshly Squeezed Orange
1 Tablespoon Sherry Vinegar

Place over medium heat, and scrape until leftover brown bits melt into the liquid, and the sharp alcohol flavor cooks off. Strain, and add to pan juices.

You're going to make a roux out of the previously reserved turkey fat, and 4 tablespoons flour. Whisk the fat and flour over medium-high heat for 5-7 minutes. The longer you go, the deeper flavor you'll be rewarded with. Just don't let it burn.

Slowly whisk the pan juices into the roux. Continue to whisk for two minutes once all pan juice is added.

Finish with:
Squeeze Fresh Orange
1/2 Tablespoon Sherry Vinegar
Salt, as necessary

If you're into that kind of thing, you can strain again before serving. I didn't.

Making Bacon at Home, First Attempt

2009-11-20T11:16:00.000-08:00

It was only a matter of time before I did this. I love bacon. Love it with all my heart. So why not make my own, right?

I did. It was a time intensive process, but the actual work time was very limited. The result was decent, but too salty.

Don't try this at home (yet).
Actually, do try this at home. Make some adjustments to the recipe, and let me know how it turns out.

I began with:
Three Pounds Uncured Pork Belly

Washed and patted dry pork belly.
Covered completely with:
One Head of Celery, juiced
1 Tablespoon Salt
1 Tablespoon Sugar

Left pork in celery juice for 48 hours, turning occasionally.

Removed pork from juice, rinsed, and patted dry.
Painted pork with a thin layer of:
Pure Maple Syrup

Crushed, and then rubbed pork with:
1 Cup Salt
1/2 Cup Brown Sugar
1 Clove
2 Bay Leaves
1.5 Teaspoon Whole Black Pepper
1.5 Teaspoon Whole Coriander

6 Juniper Berries

Placed rubbed pork in plastic bag, and then refrigerated for one week. (One week!)
Turned it every day, draining excess liquid.

After one week, rinsed and dried pork.
Smoked, over very low heat, for 6 hours.

Sliced, and cooked.

Lessons learned:
1) This, unlike making yogurt, is worth the effort. Making bacon at home is damn satisfying.
2) For next time: reduce salt by at least 1/4 cup, and increase sugar by 1/4 cup.
3) Leave more liquid in curing bag? I think if I hadn't drained the bag so much, the pork belly might have reabsorbed some of the liquid, decreasing the salt concentration in the meat.
4) There is only one smell better than having your apartment (and neighborhood) smell like sweet smoking wood for 6 hours--it's having your apartment (and neighborhood) smell like sweet smoking wood for 6 hours, and then having your apartment smell like bacon for 2 hours after that.

*Uncured pork belly can be hard to find. Your best best is to seek out a neighborhood butcher and ask. If they don't carry it, they can usually order it for you.

*Celery juice? Really? Yup. Celery contains natural nitrates which will help cure the meat. I also like the subtle flavor it adds. If you want to skip this step, you're going to have to order something called Insta Cure #1- pink curing salt.

Not Your Mama's Brussels Sprouts: Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Balamic and Cashews

2009-11-17T09:27:00.000-08:00

First things first- my momma actually makes some pretty terrific brussels sprouts. But most people don't. They're often boiled to death, or, even worse, microwaved- I actually saw a bunch of tired looking sprouts packaged with the instruction "simply cover with plastic and microwave for 5 minutes". Well, no wonder these little things get such a bad name! Let's change that, because brussels sprouts are very tasty, and full of healthy vitamins and minerals.

Wash, remove outer leaves from, and then cut in half:
One Pound Brussels Sprouts

Toss in a bowl with:
2 Tablespoons Clarified Butter or Olive Oil
2 Pinches Salt

Place on a roasting pan, cut side down, in a pre-heated 400 degree oven.
Roast for 10 minutes.
Return to mixing bowl, and add:
3 Cloves of Garlic, minced
2 Tablespoons Balsamic Vinegar

Place back on pan, and back into oven.
Roast 15 more minutes.

Remove from oven, and top with:
1/4 Cup Roasted Cashews, smashed
1/4 Cup Smoked Gouda, grated

*Feel free to use whatever cheese you like for the topping, or no cheese at all.

Foodbuzz Blogger Festival Favorites

2009-11-13T11:11:00.000-08:00

Sharing is caring indeed. Here are a few outstanding taste-makers I met last weekend at the Foodbuzz blogger festival.

Hog Island Oyster Company: Read my last post? It's pretty clear why I love these guys.

Hearst Ranch Beef: Went to a fascinating farm-to-table discussion with Brian Kenny from Hearst Ranch Beef, and Chef Paul Arenstam from the Americano restaurant. Kenny is totally on the ball, really pushing the conversation forward- by resorting to a traditional way of raising beef. Hearst Ranch beef are free roaming, grass fed & finished cows. Hearst's operation is growing step by step- Kenny started by selling directly to progressive chefs like Arenstam, and has now taken the bold move to convince convention centers to buy better beef. Very clever, Mr. Kenny. Consumers can order directly online. Next time you're in San Francisco, stop by the Americano for one of Chef Arenstam's Hearst Ranch beef creations- the meatballs are outstanding!

Frog Hollow Farm: Located in Brentwood CA, Frog Hollow Farm is justly famous for its legendary fruit. They've been farming organically for 20 years, making them leaders in the fields. Want to know how committed to flavor they are? Well, Frog Hollow Farm is one of just two commercial operations in the United States to grow the warren pear. It's a temperamental thing to grow, so most don't. It's also, hands down, the best pear I've ever had- soft, buttery, complex, sweet, and just delightful. Also recommended- the dried fruit. "Better than candy" doesn't even begin to do the dried peaches justice. Find them if you're in the Bay Area, especially during summer and autumn- and order online if you want some amazing dried fruit for the holidays!

The Ball Whisk: I love this whisk. It has an innovative design- long, straight wires with a heavy ball of plastic at the end, and a shorter, heavier wire in the middle. It's 3432423532 times easier to clean than the traditional whisk, and is more effective, too. And it looks awesome.

Notes on Cooking: Written by Lauren Braun Costello & Russell Reich. This little book of basic kitchen tips would make a terrific holiday gift. If you're new to the kitchen, you're going to learn a lot. Even if you're experienced, there are tips & tricks in there for you. Just remember to ignore #35- "Banter Down". Costello & Reich, probably due to too much time in professional kitchens, seem to think that the home kitchen should be a place of work and silence. Screw that- talk all you want- cooking should be fun.

Trying More New Foods: Hal B. Eats an Oyster

2009-11-09T11:23:00.000-08:00

I ate a raw oyster. Actually, I ate fifteen of them.

As many of you know, I grew up a really picky eater. Terribly picky. I didn’t even eat carrots until I was 24. Seriously. During the last few years, however, a marvelous thing has happened—I’ve started to enjoy foods that I had convinced myself I hated.

So last weekend, at the terrific Foodbuzz food blogger festival, I took the biggest jump yet. Oysters. Why not? Raw? Well, if I’m going to eat an oyster…

The oysters were from Hog Island Oyster Company, a sustainable oyster farm located about an hour north of San Francisco. They were kind enough to set up a stand at the first night’s event. I was feeling brave, and, with a dash of mignonette, sucked down a Hog Island sweetwater oyster.

It was sweet and briny. Fresh. Mineral. Smooth. As soon as I swallowed the thing, I totally understood why oyster lovers are oyster lovers. There is a certain joy that envelops you when you eat an oyster. It’s hard to explain what that feeling is—if you’ve experienced it, you know what I’m talking about. If you haven't, you ought to.

After eating my first oyster, I walked away. I felt proud being such a brave dude, trying something new. “Great, I ate an oyster. Now on to the steak and cheese meat pie.” But a few minutes later, I was back at the oyster stand. One, two, three more oysters. I wanted that joy again. Four, five, six, seven. One with a little hot sauce. One with lemon. One just as it was. On and on. This is why I love food.

I felt the joy all night long. Part of it was the magic of the oyster, and part of it was the joy at trying something new. When you taste something you’ve never imagined before, you’re going to be happier for it. I speak often of having courage in the kitchen when you’re trying something new. The courage translates well to food festivals, too.

That happiness was still clearly evident the following morning. As I wandered through the Ferry Building farmers’ market, I found myself at the Hog Island stall. I told the fellas working the stall about my experience the night before. “I think we have convert,” the dude with the beard said as he shucked me another oyster. He sure does. Next time I'm in the Bay Area, I think I'm going to have to head up to Tomales Bay, and learn more about the process. Until then, I'll be chasing the buzz you get when you eat your first oyster.

*Check out Foodbuzz for quite a few recaps of the blogger festival, as well as a ton of other excellent content.

Hal B. Klein Cooks (and Talks About Presidential Facial Hair)

2009-11-04T18:10:00.000-08:00

Interviewed last night on Live! From the Future with Stuart Paap. Showed the crew how to make a simple creamy pesto sauce, talked about some movies I've been in, and shocked the world with my brilliant knowledge of mustachioed United States Presidents.

Watch the interview. I'm on about 30 minutes into the show.

Special message for the dudes out there: If you needed more proof of why you should learn how to cook, check out IM Girl Jessie Schneiderman's reaction to my killer pesto.

Apple Obsession

2009-11-02T09:28:00.000-08:00

I'm enamored with apples. They are amazing little things. Thousands of different apples exist in nature, as each apple seed will produce a unique variety. Although most of them are not great for eating, hundreds of them are.

Sadly, much of the diversity has been lost to the ages, and, more recently, giant agriculture's decision to bring just a few types to the MegaSuperMarket. Happily, I'm not the only person who is obsessed with apples, and a handful of good people have kept many heirloom apple trees producing tasty fruit.

I recently spent 10 days in New York. It's an apple state. So, naturally, I ate my way through the greenmarkets, one apple at a time. With one exception, I chose apple varieties that I was unfamiliar with.

Golden Russett: The Golden Russet was grown as a cider apple. It has been grown in New York since before 1845. It's a smallish apple that has a bronze-green, sandpaper textured skin. The apple's flesh is fairly crisp, and very airy- reminiscent of an Asian pear. The flavor is soft, mellow, and sweet, with a faint cider-like taste.

Winesap: Grown since 1817, the Winesap is one of the more popular heirloom apples on the east coast. It's a medium sized apple, with a thick red skin that has speckles of green. I found the skin a little too thick for my taste, so enjoyed most of the apple with the skin peeled- seems like the thickness would make for a great baking apple. The flesh is very crisp & juicy, with a well rounded apple flavor. It tasted almost like drinking a great apple juice.

Keepsake: The Keepsake is a medium sized brick-red apple, with mottled green undertones on its thin skin. It's a crunchy, snappy apple. I found the flavor reminiscent of apples I ate growing up- sweet, earthy, and a hint of tartness. This is one fantastic snacking apple.

Golden Supreme: From what I understand (information is limited), the Golden Supreme is a fairly new variety of apple, grown from a lucky seed. The thin skin is pale yellow, with a very slight pink hue. The flesh is fairly crisp, and on the juicy side. It has a mellow flavor, with a slight white wine aftertaste. It's not terribly sweet, with just a tiny hint of acidic tartness.

Rhode Island Greening: One of the oldest cultivated apples in America, first documented in 1650. That's just amazing. The Greening is, as you might have guessed, green- though it develops yellow undertones as it ripens. Its medium-thick flesh makes it a perfect cooking apple, which has been its historic use. Raw, the Rhode Island Greening's soft (but not mealy) flesh has a pronounced tartness. Although the tartness isn't overwhelming for hand snacking, it is probably best suited to cooking, juicing, and blending with other apples.

Margil: Another classic apple, the Margil is believed to have originated in England or France in the 1750s. It's a small apple. The russet skin has green undertones, and is of medium thickness. The flesh is fairly delicate- soft and airy. Its flavor is on the tart side, but is balanced by an earthy flavor reminiscent of hazelnuts.

Ida Red: Cultivated since the 1940s. The Ida Red lives up to its name- the thin skin is bright, brick red. The flesh is firm and fairly crisp, and keeps its texture for a long time in storage. The flavor is very well balanced- nice & sweet, with just enough tartness to keep it interesting. Perhaps not the most exciting apple, but certainly one of the best to snack on.

Chestnut: A red/orange apple with very thin skin. It's a crisp apple, with a bold sweet flavor. There is a hint of tartness at first bite, but after that, it's all sweetness. Super sweet, actually. This would be a good apple for people who want to convince kids that fresh fruit is better than candy. Less successful for adults who already know that, and want something a little more complex.

Northern Spy: Believed to have originated in New York in the early 1800s. The Northern Spy is a red & green apple with a thin skin. It's very juicy, with a nice crisp bite. The apple is on the tart side, though there is a hint of sweetness. Probably better suited for cooking or as a highlight in a salad. Or, here's a great idea- use a mix of Northern Spy and Chestnut in your juicer for a perfect apple juice blend!

Macintosh: The Mac is one of the few heirloom varieties to remain popular through the ages- it's been around since 1811. And there is a good reason for it- a fresh picked Macintosh apple is one of the most satisfying bites around. It's has a perfectly balanced, prototypical apple flavor. Not too sweet, not too tart, just wonderful all around. The white flesh is soft and airy, a beautiful bite. However, the soft and airy flesh is also the apple's Achilles's heel- the poor Mac doesn't store very well, before you know it, the poor thing has gone all mealy. If you're lucky enough to find one fresh off the tree, grab it while you can.

As you can see, there is more to the apple than "fuji" or "gala". Take a trip sometime this autumn to the farmers' market, and try something new.

*Apples were grown by Red Jacket Orchard and Locust Grove Fruit Farm.
*All apples were eaten raw.
* I sourced the dates of earliest known production from Trees of Antiquity, Orange Pippin, and Apple Journal.

Beef & Barley Soup

2009-10-22T11:20:00.001-07:00

Poor barley has somehow gotten the short shrift in the grain world. This is sad, because barley is totally terrific- chewy, nutty, and wholesome. It's also really easy to prepare- you can simply boil one cup of barley in three cups of water for 25 minutes and you're good to go. Better yet, you can make my amazing beef & barley soup, and see first hand how tasty this little grain is.

Begin by browning:
2 Lbs. Chuck or Top Round, cut into 2 inch squares

Remove from pan.
Add:
4 Carrots, quartered
3 Ribs Celery, halved
1 Large Onion, diced into large chunks
1 Parsnip, halved
4 Whole Cloves Garlic

Cook veggies for 5 minutes, and then return beef to pot.
Add:
2 Cups Beef Stock
1 Cup Purred Tomatoes
1 Cup Stout Beer
2 Tablespoons Dried Italian Seasoning

Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low.
Cook 1.5 hours.

Remove as much of the celery, parsnip, and garlic as you can.
Wash and then add:
3/4 Cup Barley

Cook for one more hour, stirring every 15 minutes.

*To shorten final cooking time, you can start the barley in a separate pot. Cook it for the first 30 minutes in this pot, drain, and cook the final 30 minutes in the soup pot.

*You don't have to remove the celery, parsnip, and garlic. I like to do so because I feel it helps the final texture of the soup.

Roasting a Pepper

2009-10-16T11:03:00.000-07:00

Roasted peppers are expensive to buy. And the quality is generally mediocre. Why spend money on something mediocre, when you can easily do it better at home?

All you need to roast a pepper are:
A Pepper
Fire or Heat
Tongs
A Brown Bag
Oil

You have two options for roasting: oven & open flame.

Fire

Clearly, it's much more fun to roast something over an open fire, so let's start there. Turn your gas burner on high (sorry, electric range users, no fun for you- go to the back yard and build a campfire...). Grip the stem of the pepper with the tongs, and place over heat. Rotate when the sides begin to blacken. You're going to need some courage here- there will be smoke and burning. Enjoy it.

When all sides are blackened, place pepper in a brown paper bag. Roll the top. Let the pepper cool in the bag for 15 minutes. This will allow the pepper to cook through, and the steam will help separate the skin from the flesh. To fully remove the skin, rub the sides of the bag. The friction will expose most of the flesh- use your fingers to do the rest.

Heat

A less fun, if more elegant, method for roasting a pepper is to use your oven. Brush the pepper with vegetable oil, and place on a baking sheet. (To avoid messy cleanups, you might want to line the sheet with aluminum foil.) Put that in a 400 degree oven. Every 10 minutes, use your tongs to turn the pepper. After about 45 minutes, you'll have a wonderfully roasted pepper.

No need to for the brown bag here, as the pepper will be more evenly cooked. Simply allow the pepper to cool, and then peel off the skin.

After that, remove the stem and seeds- they will be very easy to get rid of. Serve warm or cold. Or mixed into something else. However you want to. They're very good.

Turkey Stew

2009-10-13T18:16:00.000-07:00

It gets "cold" and rainy in Los Angeles just a few times per year. Today is one of those days. So I decided to try something new, and make a turkey stew. Had some fun playing with flavors, especially the apple notes. It turned out pretty terrific.

Cut into good-sized chunks, and then brown:
2 Pounds Turkey, white, dark, or mixed

Remove turkey from pot.
Immediately add:
3 Carrots, quartered
3 Ribs Celery, quartered
1 Onion, quartered
2 Green Apples, quartered (remove core!)
3 Cloves Garlic, smashed
Pinch Salt

Roast veggies for 4-5 minutes, and then remove from pot.

Add:
2 Tablespoons Butter or Chicken Fat
2 Tablespoons Flour
Cook fat & flour for 3 minutes. Whisk constantly.

Whisk in:
1.5 Cups Chicken Stock
1/2 Cup White Wine
1/2 Cup Apple Juice
1/2 Cup Water
1/4 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar
2 Tablespoons Dried Thyme
1 Tablespoon Dried Sage

Allow the liquid to come to boil.
Return turkey and vegetables to the pot.

Cover, and transfer to a 300 degree oven.
Cook 1.5 hours.

Nature's Pride Meets Toasty Goodness

2009-10-07T11:20:00.000-07:00

My friends at Foodbuzz sent me a few loaves of Nature's Pride bread. I am not a fan of commercial sliced bread, as it is usually filled with chemicals, filler, and air. So I was prepared to write a nasty "worst thing since sliced bread" review. Much to my surprise, I actually really enjoyed the bread- especially the 100% Whole Wheat.

Nature's Pride bread manages to maintain decent shelf life stability (it kept fresh in my pantry for one week), without the addition of preservatives and stabilizers. There is a subtle sweetness to the bread, achieved with only 4g sugar (sugar, honey, brown sugar, molasses, and concentrated raisin juice form the sugar blend). A touch of vinegar balances the sweetness, and helps bring out the great malty flavor of the wheat.

Best of all, the slices are generously thick, without being too overwhelming. In fact, they are the perfect thickness for a toasty sandwich. So, Nature's Pride 100% Whole Wheat...meet my favorite open faced sandwich:

To build the sandwich, layer:
One Slice Nature's Pride 100% Whole Wheat
Spicy Apricot Dippin' Sauce
2 Slices Rosemary Ham
1-2 Slices Swiss Cheese
Dijon Mustard
2 Slices Rosemary Ham
Grated Parmegiano Reggiano Chese

Toast until cheese begins to brown, about 6 minutes.

*I was also given a sample of the 12 Grain bread. The flavor was nice. However, I'm not a big fan of bits of seed and grain in my bread. If you like that sort of thing, go for it. I'll stick with the smooth bread.

*Interstate Bakeries, the owners of Nature's Pride, also make Wonder Bread. Wonder Bread, of course, is the bread that's most symbolic of the collapse of good bread in America. Strange. But impressive. This represents a step in the right direction; A massive (often low quality) bread company introducing a line of bread with high quality ingredients will allow more people to have the choice to eat Good Food. That's the key- the choice. You need to read the labels, and choose bread made with wholesome ingredients.

Matzo Balls

2009-10-02T11:04:00.000-07:00

If you're making chicken soup, you might as well make some matzo balls, too. They're a lot easier to make than you think, and you can use the flavor of the soup to enhance the flavor of the matzo balls.

Whisk together:
2 Eggs
2 Tablespoons Chicken Fat
1.5 Tablespoons Chicken Soup
1/2 Teaspoon Baking Powder
Small Pinch Salt

Add:
1/2 Cup plus 2 Teaspoons Matzo Meal
Stir matzo in until just combined- do not over mix, or your balls will be less fluffy.
Refrigerate for one hour.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Roll matzo mix into one inch balls.
Boil, with pot covered, for 40 minutes.

*Chicken fat. Listen. You're not going to have a heart attack if you use it. It adds immeasurably to the flavor and texture of the matzo balls. So just use it. The best thing to do is to skim it from the top of the soup.

Simple Wicked Good Potatoes

2009-09-24T16:32:00.000-07:00

So what if this dish has spent many a night as part of a buffet line. It's wicked good, and very easy to make.

Boil, for 20 minutes:
One Pound Fingerling Potatoes

Drain potatoes, and allow to cool slightly.
Sliced potatoes into 1/2 inch slices.
Set aside.

In a hot pan, add:
2 Tablespoons Butter
2 Cloves Garlic, chopped

Once butter and garlic begin to brown remove from heat.
Stir in:
Sliced Potatoes
1/4 Cup Italian Parsley, chopped
2 Pinches Salt

Spicy Lemon Sherbet

2009-09-15T11:16:00.000-07:00

Simmer, over medium-low heat, for 10 minutes:

¾ Cup Heavy Cream

¾ Cup Milk (at least 1% fat)

1 Serrano Pepper, seeds removed

1/4 Cup Fresh Mint, chopped

Strain.

Use the back of a spoon to press out extra liquid.

Discard solids.

Whisk in:

1 ½ Cups Fresh Squeezed Lemon Juice

1 ¾ Cups Sugar

Allow mix to cool.

Use in ice cream maker, according to machine’s direction.

Serves 5

Heirloom Tomato and Onion Salad

2009-09-01T11:02:00.000-07:00

I feel bad for the tomato & onion salad: Watery, crappy tomatoes. Overwhelming sharp onion flavor. Relegated to mediocre steak houses and South Florida old-folks homes.

It's time to bring the tomato and onion salad back. But better. Much better.

Mix:
2 Tbs. Olive Oil
1 Tbs. Balsamic Vinegar
1/8 Cup Italian Parsley, chopped
1/8 Cup Basil, chopped
Pinches of salt & pepper

Add:
One Pound Ripe Tomatoes, cut into large chunks
1/2 Small Red Onion, diced

Mix gently.
Let sit at room temperature for up to one hour, or refrigerate for up to 8 hours.

Spoon into serving dish.
Discard excess dressing.

*I recommend using heirloom tomatoes for this. They were grown for flavor, not for ease of transportation. If possible, try to get tomatoes from your garden, a friend's garden, or the farmers' market. Don't, under any circumstance, use shitty tomatoes.

Quick Braised Green Beans

2009-08-27T11:31:00.001-07:00

Trim, wash, and cut into 1 inch pieces:
One Pound Green Beans
Set aside.

Add, to a warm skillet:
3 Slices Thick Cut Bacon, diced
Cook bacon until crispy.

Add:
2 Cloves Garlic, diced
1 Shallot, diced
2 Tsp. Ground Coriander
Cook one minute.
Add green beans, and then cook one more minute.

Add:
1/2 Cup Chicken Stock
1 Tbs. Sherry Vinegar
Cover.
Reduce heat to low.
Cook 20 minutes.

*The bacon and stock should add enough salt to the dish. Don't add extra salt until you taste, but do add more if necessary.

*Beans should be cooked through, but not overcooked. The texture should resemble a cooked piece of pasta.

*If desired, thicken leftover liquid with a small pat of butter.

Pizza Failure

2009-08-24T09:16:00.000-07:00

Every few months, I have to fly to New York to eat pizza. It's genetic. My dad feels the same urge. When you grow up with NY pizza, nothing else really satisfies. So, I've been experimenting with various methods (pizza stone in oven, brick over hot coal, terra cotta stone in smoker) to stop the cravings, and nothing has quite worked.

Last night, my pizza making dreams took a step backward. I thought making my own dough would be the way forward. Unfortunately, I suck at baking. Therefore, my dough was...not great. It turned to crisp flatbread fairly quickly, but didn't cook all the way through for 25 minutes. Effort to delicious ratio was far too tilted to effort. Failure.

Back to the drawing board.

*I had a ton of leftover dough, so I threw it in a bread pan and made a loaf of bread. The bread was about as good as the pizza.

Minty Glazed Carrots

2009-08-13T12:48:00.000-07:00

Add, to a hot pan:
1 Tbs Butter
2 Carrots, sliced to about 1/4 inch
1 Shallot, Diced

Cook one minute, then add:
1 Tbs Rice Wine Vinegar
1 Tbs Agave or Honey
1 Tbs Fresh Mint, chopped
Pinch Salt

Cook for one more minute.
Serve hot or cold.

Idea: Dust Off Your Cooler

2009-08-11T09:59:00.000-07:00

The problem with farmers' market shopping during the summer is that, unless you go straight home after, your fresh eggs are going to be cooked before you get the chance to cook them yourself. We've all had it happen- raspberries turning into compote, lettuce wilting, good beef gone bad. Fear not, though. A solution is at hand.

Remember when you used bring a cooler full of beer down to the shore? Maybe you still do. Well, grab some ice packs and bring your cooler to the farmers' market. This way you can keep your perishables nice and cool while you go on with the rest of your day.

Whiskey Soaked Flank Steak

2009-08-06T10:59:00.000-07:00

Whisk together:
1/2 Cup Whiskey
1/2 Cup Apple Juice
1/2 Cup Worcestershire Sauce
1/4 Cup Water
1/4 Cup Olive Oil
1 Serrano Chili, chopped
3 Cloves Garlic, smashed
1 Tbs. Agave Nectar
2 Tsp. Onion Powder
2 Tsp. Salt
2 Tsp. Fresh Black Pepper
1 Tsp. Liquid Smoke (optional)
15 Stalks Fresh Time

Pour over:
2 Pound Flank Steak

Marinate for about 24 hours.
Grill over direct heat for about 7 minutes per side.

*If you don't have agave nectar, use the same amount brown sugar.
*If you have a smoker, feel free to smoke beef instead of adding liquid smoke. That's what I did.

Beef Neil Diamond

2009-07-22T06:42:00.000-07:00

What does one do with leftover red wine? Create a recipe named after one of their favorite performers, of course.

In a small saucepan:
1 Medium Carrot, diced
1 Small Parsnip, diced
1 Large Shallot, diced
2 Cloves Garlic, smashed
3/4 Cup Beef or Chicken Broth 3/4 Cup Red Red Wine

Simmer everything for 30 minutes.

Then, in a very hot pan:
Two 1/2 lb. Filet Mignon steaks, seasoned with salt & pepper
Cook to desired doneness- about 4 minutes for medium-rare.

Remove steak from plan, and allow steak to rest 5 minutes.

While it does, add to sauce:
1 Tablespoon Butter

Pour sauce over steak, and serve.

Curried Potatoes

2009-07-15T12:10:00.000-07:00

These were the tastiest potatoes I’ve ever made.

In a large pot, boil until tender:
Two Pounds New Potatoes

Drain Potatoes. Cut them in half.

Add to pan:
1/2 Cup Butter 1 ½ Tsp. Curry Powder 1 ½ Tsp. Masala Powder

Stir for one minute.
Return potatoes to pan.

Add:
One Cup Fresh Tomatoes, diced

Serves 5 people.

*You can find masala powder at any Indian grocery. If you can’t/don’t want to find it, use 1 extra tsp. curry powder, and ½ tsp. chili powder.

Grilled Chicken, Variation 235

2009-07-08T19:01:00.000-07:00

Chicken Breast

Season with a pinch of:
Salt
Pepper
Garlic Powder
Onion Powder

Grill for approximately 6 minutes per side. Remove from grill, and top with:
1 Tablespoon Olive Oil
2 Teaspoons Fresh Squeezed Lemon Juice
2 Teaspoons Diced Fresh Tomato
1-2 Teaspoons Chopped Fresh Parsley

*This recipe only works with really fresh, ripe tomatoes. Avoid, at all costs, the cheap grocery store tomato. Only attempt during summer.

*If you don't have access to a grill, bake chicken at 425 degrees for 6 minutes per side.

Chicken Parmesan

2009-07-02T09:50:00.000-07:00

In a small bowl, mix:
One Egg
1/4 Cup Milk

Pound, to even thickness, then lightly dust in flour:
Chicken Breast

Dip pounded chicken into egg mix, then coat with:
Bread Crumbs

Add Two Tablespoons Oil to a hot pan, wait 30 seconds, then add breaded chicken. Cook for two minutes, flip, and cook for another two minutes. Chicken should be golden brown on both sides.

Pat excess oil from browned chicken, place on a baking sheet, then top with:
Two Tablespoons Tomato Sauce
1/4 Cup Shredded Mozzarella Cheese
1 Clove Garlic, thinly sliced
1/8 Cup Shredded Parmesan Cheese

Bake at 450 degrees until cheese is bubbly and brown, about 5 minutes.

Hiatus

2009-06-10T10:29:00.001-07:00

This Man's Kitchen will be taking a wee break. Come back early July for more exciting goodness!

Bourbon Brined Pork Tenderloin

2009-06-03T11:59:00.001-07:00

In a medium sized bowl add:
3.5 Cups Warm Water
1/2 Cup Bourbon
1/8 Cup Salt
1/8 Cup Sugar
1/16 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar
1 Tbs. Cinnamon
1 Tbs. Onion Powder

Whisk ingredients for 30 seconds, then add:
1 Cup Ice

Whisk again, and add:
1 Pork Tenderloin
Refrigerate for at least 3 hours, up to 12 hours.

To make glaze, cook, in a small saucepan, two tablespoons each:
Bourbon
Maple Syrup
Butter
Boil until mix is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Grill brined pork over high heat. After the first 5 minutes of cooking, baste occasionally with glaze (reserve a small amount of glaze). Remove from heat when pork reaches an internal temperature of 145 degrees- about 15 minutes. Cover with foil, and allow to rest 10 minutes. Slice, and top with a drizzle of glaze.

Early Summer Potato Salad

2009-05-27T12:59:00.000-07:00

This potato salad is great for early summer parties. It's a French style potato salad, meaning there's no mayo in it, making it easy to transport and keep out. The flavor is lighter & fresher than traditional American potato salads.

In a large pot, boil for 25 minutes:
2 Pounds Waxy New Potatoes

Meanwhile, whisk together:
4 Tablespoons Apple Cider Vinegar
3 Cloves Garlic, chopped
1 Tablespoon Spicy/Brown/Dijon Mustard
1 Teaspoon Salt
Fresh Cracked Pepper

Slowly whisk in:
10 Tablespoons Olive Oil
*Add olive oil one tablespoon at a time, making sure it all incorporates into vinegar

Allow cooked potatoes to cool 15 minutes, then cut them in half. Stir in dressing, until potatoes are just coated. Don't over-dress them! Finally finish in dish by stirring in:

1/4 Cup Fresh Italian Parsley, chopped
1/8 Cup Fresh Dill, chopped
1 Small Bunch Chives, snipped

Chili Lime Chicken

2009-05-19T11:01:00.000-07:00

This is an easy to make grilled chicken that has a bit of a kick. Eat it as is, or add some cheese and make it part of a killer grilled chicken sandwich.

3-4 Chicken Breasts
Juice of 2 Limes
1/8 Cup Olive Oil
1 Tsp. Dijon Mustard
1/2 Tsp. Salt
1/4 Tsp. Fresh Cracked Pepper
1/4 Tsp. Garlic Powder
1/4 Tsp. Onion Powder
1/4 Tsp. Chili Powder
1/4 Tsp. Cumin
1/4 Tsp. Ground Coriander

Juice limes. Whisk in mustard. Slowly whisk in olive oil. Whisk in spices. Stop using word whisk.

Coat both sides of chicken with mixture. Let stand, at room temperature, one to two hours. Grill over high heat, 7 minutes per side.

(Almost) Success

2009-05-15T11:30:00.000-07:00

Awhile back, I decided to try to make pizza at home. Not just any pizza- coal oven pizza. Sadly, previous attempts ended in failure. Terrible failure. Happily, the new smoker opened up new possibles.

I picked up a nice square of terra cotta for 25 cents at the Home Depot. Yup, 25 cents! Screw you, expensive pizza stones. Made a crazy hot charcoal fire. Threw in a chunk of hardwood just for kicks. Grew excited. Very excited.

Excitement. That was the big problem. Lack of patience. I'm pretty sure the stone needed at least another twenty minutes to get to ideal heat. One of the things that makes coal oven pizza is the charred crust. The biggest thing lacking in my pizza was...charred crust.

Although the pizza lacked charred crust, it was otherwise pretty good. I had a nice sauce/cheese balance, and the addition of a little garlic and basil was fantastic. Overall, I was much happier with the result- especially compared to previous attempts. But pretty happy is not the goal.

Next time, more time. And, hopefully, success. Good thing I'm off to New York next week. For research, of course.

GiGi's Farmers' Market

2009-05-12T11:31:00.000-07:00

What do you get when you take a handful of food vendors and pair it with a production designer? GiGi's Farmers' Market.

Every Saturday from 10AM to 2PM, the Americana at Brand plays host to GiGi's Farmers' Market. Award winning production designer Kelly Van Patter was hired to create "an atmosphere that conjures the spirit of European marketplaces." From a design perspective, at least, Van Patter's work is a great success.

The market, named after developer Rick Caruso's daughter, is, undoubtedly, the prettiest farmers' market in Los Angeles. The vendors' stalls are clean and bright, overflowing with beautiful looking food. The European homage is unmistakable. It looks as if the market is a permanent fixture, rather than a passing four hour fancy on Saturday afternoons.

Although the market is pretty, the uniformity takes a bit away from a true farmers' market experience. It's hard to imagine individual small farms, when all the vendors are wearing "GiGi's Farmers' Market" aprons. The illusion is further broken by having some of the Americana's corporate tenants setting up stalls beside the family farms. It's a very pleasant atmosphere, but, personally, I'm a bigger fan of the discordant hubbub of Sunday's Hollywood market.

Diversity seemed to be the key word in choosing vendors for the market. In addition to the standard fruit & vegetable offering, shoppers at GiGi's Farmers' Market can expect to find French pastries, organic poultry, fresh fish, preserved and prepared foods, and a small spattering of hand-crafted items. Prices match those found at other Los Angeles farmers' markets.

Overall, the Americana's addition of GiGi's Farmers' Market is a big plus. Sure, it might be a little more slick in design than other Los Angeles area farmers' markets. But, by being located in an open air mall, the market will attracted a huge amount of people who otherwise might never experience a farmers' market. Hopefully, they'll enjoy their experience enough to find other local farmers' markets and pay them a visit.

Stupid Labels

2009-05-07T12:08:00.000-07:00

Nearly a year ago, I wrote about the importance of reading labels. Clearly, this is a very good idea. It's necessary to provide people with as much information as is practical. But, instead of focusing on helpful things like where our food is sourced, companies tend to use labels either as marketing tools or as a place for useless information.

Fat free water?! Really. Well, thank you Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf for inventing that. Oh...water is naturally fat free? Is that because it's...WATER?! I'm not sure what the point of this is. Does anyone not think that water is fat free? Although, maybe some fat in water wouldn't be such a bad idea. Bacon fat infused spring water, anyone? Now that's a label I'd like to see!

Here's a baffling example of protections applied in the wrong place. Indeed, it is very important for people with wheat sensitivities to know if there is wheat in what they're eating. However, is is really necessary to hit people on the head with it? If the ingredients of something are wheat & water, I bet anyone who takes the time to monitor their wheat intake every day could probably detect that there is, indeed, wheat in this matzo. Perhaps, instead, they could let us know where that wheat came from...

Easy Meat Sauce

2009-05-05T11:36:00.000-07:00

This is an easy to make, stripped down meat sauce. Not a lot of hard work involved in this one!

28oz. Can Ground Tomato
1/3 Cup Olive Oil
4 Cloves Garlic
1 Tsp. Onion Powder
1 Tsp. Sugar
1 Tsp. Dried Oregano or Italian Seasoning
Salt

1Lb. Ground Beef
15% Fat, Grass-fed preferred
1 Tbsp. Salt
1 Tsp. Garlic Powder
1 Tsp. Onion Powder

Season ground beef. Brown for about 3 minutes in a large pan. Drain fat, add remaining ingredients. Simmer at least 30 minutes, preferably for one hour.

Spicy Apricot Dippin' Sauce

2009-04-28T11:13:00.000-07:00

This sauce is a perfect example of what you can do when you're feeling creative. I had no idea I was going to make this until just before I did.

2 Tbls. Apricot Jam
1.5 Tsp. Apple Cider Vinegar
1/4 Tsp. Chili Powder
Chives or Scallions
Pinch of Salt

Snip a couple of chives or scallions into small piece. Mix everything.

*The combination of apricot jam & cider vinegar does not smell very good. Be prepared! Luckily, it tastes fantastic.

Buitoni Riserva Wild Mushroom Agnolotti

2009-04-24T11:46:00.000-07:00

From time to time, the good people at Foodbuzz send me free samples. The idea is that since I (theoretically!) have good taste, I can report back to the vendors about their products. I like this. Free things are nice, and I do (actually) have pretty good taste. However, sometimes the enjoyment of reviewing free samples meets an impassible boundary. In this case, it's my deep dislike of mushrooms.

So when the good folks at Buitoni sent me a sample of their Wild Mushroom Agnolotti, I was in a jam. Must do my duty as free sample reviewer, mustn't eat hated mushrooms. I decided to solve this problem by splitting the task- I would do everything but the eating.

The cooking directions for the agnolotti - basically a large ravioli with a fancy name - are simple, boil for 4-6 minutes. I like the quick cooking time, but I don't like that Buitoni suggests adding oil to the pasta water- it's a big no no in pasta cooking. Step two of the Buitoni process states that "our premium pastas are do delicious, just toss with extra virgin olive oil," so that's what I did. Simple.

On to the taste tester. Tester reported that mushroom flavor was pronounced and very earthy. They found the flavor generally balanced, but a little on the salty side. Texture was good, especially considering the pasta was made to be refrigerated for a fairly long time period. They thought the just serve with olive oil claim was a bit bold, it could have used at least a little garlic. (To be fair, the olive oil instruction does end with "or one of our fine Buitoni sauces," but, if you're going to make a claim that simply oil works, you better back it up!) "Better than your average refrigerator case pasta" was the final verdict.

The "Riserva" brand is Buitoni's high-end line, and that's reflected in the Wild Mushroom Agnolotti ingredients. Everything looks to be of good quality- there are actually a lot of mushrooms in it, and there is a noticeable lack of high fructose corn syrup & preservatives. Good for you Buitoni! It is a very rich dish, however (6g saturated fat, 25% of your daily cholesterol), so I'd suggest either serving in smaller portions or only enjoying occasionally.

Pin-Up Pastries is Sweet

2009-04-20T11:55:00.000-07:00

It's always exciting to see one of your friends do something fantastic. I've been friends with Erin Garcia, the owner and executive pastry chef of Pin-Up Pastries for quite a few years now. After working as a personal chef, and in many of New York's top kitchens, she's now running the show in her tasty new sweets shop.

Garcia's pastries totally hit the mark. What I like best about them is that they're not cloyingly sweet. By using high quality ingredients & amazing technique, Garcia is able to make satisfying deserts that don't overwhelm. Especially impressive are her macrons, which come in a variety of exciting flavors.

The store, decorated with namesake pin-up photos, is located at 13944 Ventura Blvd in Sherman Oaks. Check it out!

Live Cooking Demo Tonight!

2009-04-17T15:52:00.001-07:00

I'll be making Penne Pesto with Chicken Breast live tonight on LuvChat. Tune it at 8PM Pacific time to enjoy the shenanigans. Show will stream in repeats after the broadcast.

Baby Back Ribs

2009-04-16T11:45:00.000-07:00

Finally. I've been thinking about making these for ages.

2 Tsp. Salt
2 Tsp. Brown Sugar
1 Tsp. Garlic Powder
1 Tsp. Onion Powder
1 Tsp. Chili Powder
1/2 Tsp. Cumin
1/2 Tsp. Ground Sage
1/2 Tsp. Coriander

Wash & dry ribs. Remove membrane on the backside of ribs by sliding a sharp knife underneath, then gently pulling the membrane & moving the knife. This is optional, but highly recommended. The membrane, being inedible, takes away from the rib eating joy. Cover both sides of the rack with rub, and rub gently into the meat. Cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Soak wood chunks in water for 1/2 hour. I used a combination of hickory, pecan, and cherry. Place on top of hot coals. When smoker reaches 250 degrees, place ribs on rack. Smoke for about 3 hours, adding coal/wood as necessary.

If desired, you can brush with BBQ sauce in the last half hour. You don't really need to.

Smoker

2009-04-14T15:25:00.000-07:00

For the last three years, I've been using a small charcoal grill with a box attachment to do my smoking. Thanks to a sweet $59 deal at the Home Depot, an upgrade has been made. The box is still fairly small, I don't have a lot of people to feed. But, it's bigger than before, opening up a range of options.

I like the square design, with the coal/wood pot located on the bottom, a vessel for liquid above that, then two racks for smoking. Temperature is easy to regulate, thanks to 4 adjustable vents.

My first experiment was with chicken. After seasoning the box, I put a few lightly brined breasts on the top rack. I let them smoke for an hour- a simple, clean smoke flavor was the result. The next thing was a rack of baby back ribs, since I've been secretly plotting a rib smoke for about a year now. The planning and plotting payed off, the ribs were fantastic. Come back on Thursday to see how it all went down.

So, what's next? Well, I think I'm going to live my dreams and smoke a whole Boston butt. Pulled pork is a passion, and if I can pull it off, I'll be a happy happy man. After that, I'm going brisket, two different ways: Texas style and Jew style. That's right, friends, sometime this summer, I'm going to cure and smoke my own pastrami. Sweet.

Brisket

2009-04-09T12:24:00.000-07:00

Passover is not my favorite holiday. I'm positively incapable of going 8 days without any kind of leavened bread. In a strange gesture of dedication, I try to live through the entire holiday without eating any sweet sweet forbidden pork. Generally, I fail. (But, in my defence, it's usually by mistake. Like the one year I went to a friend's house for Easter and realized the extent of my failure only after I had eaten a ham sandwich. I ham sandwich that was made AFTER the Easter dinner.)

What I do like about Passover, though, is the feast tradition. So, last night I made a little bit of awesome. The highlight of the meal was this brisket.

1 Brisket
1 Cup Beef Stock
1 Cup Water
2 Onions, sliced
2 Tsp. Sherry Vinegar
1/8 Cup Crushed Tomatoes
Fresh Thyme & Sage

Season brisket with salt & pepper, then brown both sides. Remove from pan, deglaze with water & stock. Add remaining ingredients, return brisket to pan. Bring everything to a boil, cover, and then transfer to a 300 degree oven. Cook for three hours.

Allow brisket to cool for about 20 minutes, then slice against the grain of the meat. Strain cooking liquid, and serve as sauce.

Health Freedom Expo

2009-04-04T15:32:00.001-07:00

The Long Beach Convention Center played host to the Health Freedom Expo over the weekend. New age hippies flew on their positive energy powered magic carpets of healing just as quick as they could. Hucksters and snake oil salesmen rejoiced.

I'm all for stepping out of Western thought and finding a balance in life. I'm clearly for a whole food approach to eating. Traditional medicine can be a very effective tool in treating many ailments. There are many things about wellness I don't understand, so therefore shouldn't judge. Good. Fine. I get that.

I also get that, as a whole, we can be way too concerned for out health & well being. Instead of looking for long-term, sustainable ways of living, we look for the quick fix, the magic bullet. So people head to places like the Heath Freedom Expo to spend money on complete crap.

There were many devices for sale that make your water "pure". A ctually, I take that back. Some made your water "pure", while others infused it with positive energy. There was even one device that would cleanse you AND the planet. All you had to do was pay $300, and stick your feet in the magical tank.

In addition to healing through water, you could also heal yourself with berries. Berries! One better than the next! Antioxidants! Don't get me wrong, I love berries. I'm sitting next to a giant basket of strawberries (bought from the farmers' market because some bastard keeps stealing my garden berries) right now. They're fantastic, they taste great, and yes, they are very good for you. They don't however, create miracles. So when someone tells you that drinking a special juice made from them will cure cancer/headaches/insomnia/low sex drive/memory loss/the recession, you should laugh at them, not buy their berry juice. Because here's the thing: NO SINGLE FOOD SOURCE CAN CURE EVERYTHING.

Some of the vendors really believe in what they sell. And that's fine. The mind/body connection is a real thing, and if you have the funds & think your ion water is helping, be my guest. But you should realize that a lot of the products being sold are scams & pyramid schemes (I'm looking at you Mona Vie), so use caution. Most of what was for sale at the Health Freedom Expo will do you no good. Spend your money elsewhere. (You can spend it funding an awesome cooking show...mmmm, funding.)

There was one pretty awesome thing for sale at the expo- Kangoos. They are ski boots with cleverly shaped rubber attachments that make you walk/job like a kangaroo. Really fun to use, and very low impact on your joints.

Steamy Buttered Asparagus

2009-04-02T15:05:00.001-07:00

I am not a member of the Cult of Asparagus. It's good, for sure, but not as good as french fries. Still, the stuff is pretty damn healthy, and it does taste like springtime (though not as much as now peas).

1 Bunch Asparagus
2 Tbs. Butter
Lemon
Salt

Remove woody bottom from asparagus. This can be done by either: holding both ends and snapping -or- looking for the part on the stem where the color changes from a pale white green to a deeper shade of green and cutting just above that. Clearly, the second one will leave you with more to eat. With thick asparagus, you should also use a vegetable peeler to peel the stem.

Steam asparagus until just tender. Don't overdo it. Don't. For thin asparagus, 2.5 minutes should do it, thick asparagus 5 minutes.

Add butter to a warm pan, and heat until it just begins to turn brown. Toss in steamed asparagus and a pinch or two of salt. Cook 30 seconds. Squeeze lemon, toss again, serve.

Strawberries

2009-03-31T11:03:00.000-07:00

Sure, you can find strawberries year round, but, even more so than most fruits, they really shine when they're in season. For those of us in California, the season is here. Be patient in cooler climates. Strawberries are coming your way soon.

The two most common varieties of strawberry are camarosa and albion. There isn't much of a difference in taste between the two. Albion is a new variety, quickly becoming the most popular choice for California farmers. All of the vendors who sold them seemed really proud to be doing so. I had a pretty good sampling of both camarosa and albion, and, though I found the albion to have a slightly more balanced flavor, both were very enjoyable.

The only other variety I was able to find at the farmers' market was one called a '269'. It was billed as "softer and juicer" than other strawberries. It was. However, the flavor was also softer and less complex than either the albion or camerosa. Make your '69' jokes now. Be my guest.

Look for berries that are a deep brick red. There should be no traces of green or white at the top- this indicates a berry that was picked before full ripeness. Avoid bruised berries, unless you're going to eat them immediately. Then again, you should eat them right away- strawberries loose flavor when refrigerated. The best thing to do is pick some up at a farmers' market, and eat them the same day.

I lie. The best flavor comes from growing your own. However, strawberries are fairly difficult to grow, and yields are small. But you should experiment anyway if you have the space. What you should NEVER do is steal another person's strawberries. Especially if they plan on eating the two small ripe berries in their berry patch right before writing a blog about strawberries. Because that will make a person mad. Mad I say!

Deep Fried Bacon Stuffed Chicken

2009-03-26T15:04:00.000-07:00

I've been eating so much "healthy" food recently, I nearly forgot what's really healthy. Bacon! So, I thought- "How can I make bacon really HEALTHY". Deep fry it, of course. I've already used wonton skins for such a thing, and I wanted to do something different. That's when the lightbulb turned on. What if I stuffed the bacon inside chicken? What if I also added cheese, and some spiced jam? What if I took all that, rolled it up, then breaded it in a cornflake crust? That sounds healthy to me.

Chicken Breast
Bacon, pre-cooked
Apricot Jam
mixed with a small amount of crushed hot pepper
Smoked Gouda Cheese
2 Tbs. Flour
4 Tbs. Milk
Cornflake Crumbs

Pound a chicken breast to about 1/4 inch thickness. Spread a bit of the spiced jam on top of chicken, then a layer of cheese, and finally, top with pre-cooked bacon. Roll the chicken tightly, and hold together with toothpicks.

In a small bowl, combine flour and milk. Dip rolled chicken in mix, then roll in cornflake crumbs. If you have time, let sit for at least 30 minutes.

Fry at 365 for 6-8 minutes, depending on how thick your roll is.

*If you don't have corn flake crumbs, you can use bread crumbs. Add a bit of salt and sugar to flour mix if you do.

Be Lazy: Frozen Brown Rice

2009-03-22T21:11:00.001-07:00

Ever since I tried to make yogurt, I've been thinking about what is worth putting in extra effort and what is not. Generally, I try to make everything I eat from scratch- it's more satisfying, and nearly always tastes better that way. However, there are times when laziness is rewarded. Such is the case with frozen brown rice.

Brown rice isn't difficult to cook, but it does take some time- about 40 minutes. Now, if you've been reading This Man's Kitchen for awhile, you know I'm not afraid of slow cooked food. However, why take 40 minutes to do something when it can be done in 3 minutes. Three minutes. That's all it takes for frozen brown rice.

So, clearly the frozen stuff wins the time contest. What about quality? Well, I have no problems here, either. The master scientists who designed the freezing apparatus (grains look individually frozen) and the steamer bag deserve some sort of prize. I never thought I'd say this, but: Frozen microwavable rice is at least as good as the rice I'd make on my stove top. Wow. The rice is organically grown, which is a nice bonus.

You can find frozen brown rice at both Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe's. Currently, they sell for $4.69 at Whole Foods. With 6-9 servings per box, it's a pretty good deal!

The only downside- the unfortunate name of the brand sold at Whole Foods. It's called "Rice Expressions". Who was the genius that thought of that?! Lame.

In other news, there is strong evidence that First Lady Michelle Obama is a HUGE fan of This Man's Kitchen. Alice Waters spent over 20 years lobbying for a White House vegetable garden. 20 years! I write about it on a Monday, ground is broken on the garden just a few days later.

Sweet Sweet Kielbasa

2009-03-18T11:49:00.000-07:00

I'm told that this quick and tasty appetizer is popular among the Russian folk. I can see why- it's complex in flavor, easy to make, and really good.

Kielbasa
Brown Sugar
Spicy Mustard

Slice the kielbasa at a 45 degree angle. Top with a sprinkling of brown sugar. Bake at 450 for about 8 minutes, until sugar is melted and top is golden brown. Serve with mustard.

Since this dish is so simple, quality of ingredients is extra-important here. Take the time to read the label.

GrowBama

2009-03-16T14:34:00.001-07:00

Last night, 60 Minutes aired a generally nifty segment on Alice Waters. Sadly, the piece occasionally veered into the strange thought that eating wholesome and organic food is somehow an elitist practice. Chef Waters did her best to explain why it's actually the opposite- that Eating Good Food is as down to earth as can be. Literally.

That's why we should all support the effort to have a Presidential victory garden at the White House. Not too long ago, it was considered both patriotic and practical to grow a garden. The President and First Lady have a wonderful opportunity to show Americans that choosing to eat wholesome, chemical free food is a choice we all should make.

To learn more about why this is necessary, and how it could be done, check out Michael Pollan's brilliant NY Times article.

To take action, sign the WhoFarm's petition.

Pineapple Chicken

2009-03-12T11:14:00.000-07:00

2 Chicken Breasts, thinly sliced

2 Tablespoons Pineapple Juice

1 Tablespoon Soy Sauce

1 Clove Garlic, minced

Approx. 1/2 Teaspoon Minced Ginger

32oz. Can Pineapple, drained

Reserve juice for marinade/sauce

1 Sweet Bell Pepper

1 Small Onion

1 Carrot

1/2 Cup Pineapple Juice

3 Tablespoons Chicken Stock

2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce

2 Cloves Garlic, minced

2 Teaspoons Ginger, minced

1 Teaspoon Corn Starch

Combine chicken with rest of marinade, and set aside for up to an hour.

In a hot pan, cook pineapple and vegetables for about two minutes. Remove from pan, then cook chicken for about two minutes too. Return veggies to pan. Combine sauce ingredients, add to pan, and cook for another minute. Let rest about 30 seconds, stir, and serve.

Start Your Gardens (With a Tomato)

2009-03-09T14:28:00.001-07:00

It's hard to believe that I've been gardening for a year now. What started as a solo tomato plant in a large pot, turned into a homemade garden in an overturned storage shed, and has now become a stealth planting project all over my (landlord's) yard. You know you're obsessed when you're planting a handful of shallots in between your landlord's begonias.

If you've never gardened before, I'd encourage you to give it a shot. It's insanely rewarding to eat something you've grown yourself. Sure, it takes a little patience. And a little work- there is watering involved, sometimes every day. But, in the long run, it's not very difficult. You'll save money on food, too!

The best thing to do is to start with tomatoes. If your recent experience with tomatoes has been the pale orange slices of watery goop that was thoughtlessly added to your burger, you're in for a treat, Buster. Tomatoes, being soft and squishy by nature, aren't designed for travel. So grocery store tomatoes have been bread for toughness, not flavor. They are also picked before fully ripe, again diminishing the flavor. When you grow your own, you can choose varieties designed for maximum flavor, and pick them when ripe!

They're also remarkably easy to grow. Even if you're stuck for space, you can grow tomatoes. All you need is a decent sized pot, some quality organic compost or potting soil, and a seedling. Seedlings can be found at your local garden center, or, even better, at a farmers' market. The University of Georgia has a lot of information, but don't feel like you need to be so scientific about it. Good dirt, careful monitoring, and patience will do the trick.

There are hundreds of varieties to choose from. naturalhub.com, a great resource in general, provides an excellent list of options. Heirloom tomatoes have a wide array of flavor & color, but can be more difficult to grow. Hybrid tomatoes are bred for greater pest resistance and predictability.

My personal favorites are:
San Marzano- an Italian plum tomato, used for sauce.
Sun Gold: An orange cherry tomato. Perfect balance of acid and sugar. They grow very TALL.
Early Girl: An quick growing, medium sized fruit. Good all purpose flavor. Works great in a pot.
Brandywine: A popular heirloom beefsteak tomato. Amazing flavor- tastes how you think a tomato should!

WARNING: Chances are, once you grow one plant, you're going to want to grow more. And more. And more.

Friday is for Sharing!

2009-03-06T15:52:00.001-08:00

Time for a new feature on This Man's Kitchen. From now on, Fridays will be for sharing. I'll list a few food blogs that have caught my attention in the past week. You will then go and enjoy the excellence that they offer. Sounds like a plan? Good.

Off The (Meat) Hook
The first share has to go to my friend Karen at Off The (Meat) Hook. We're old buddies from college. Many memories of drunken dirty Jenga parties and hilarious musicals rest in our heads. It also happens that Karen is an accomplished cook, creating a variety of fantastic recipes both savory & sweet. Her photography is stellar. As an added bonus, Karen reviews restaurants in the most excellent way possible- haiku. Who needs 1,000 words when 17 syllables can say it all?

Rum Dood
I met the Rum Dood (Matt Robold) at a Foodbuzz featured publishers' dinner last summer. He writes what might be the most entertaining and informative booze site out there. In fact, Rum Dood was recently awarded that Best Drink Blog on the Well-Fed Network. You'll find a nice mix of product reviews and cocktail recipes. Perfect reading for a Friday.

Bacon Today
I have no idea how I didn't know about this site until today. If you know me, you know my deep love of bacon. Well, imagine my delight when, while viewing the L.A. Times food section, I found a link to Bacon Today. Bacon Obsession is more like it. In a Thanksgiving post, the sites "Chief Baconographer" Corey James took a turducken to a new level of awesome by wrapping it it bacon. "Head Chef" Matt Kirsch brought his own bacon to baconless In-N-Out. All I can think about is bacon now, thanks to these guys. This is some serious stuff.

Read This (Extra Credit Edition) : Molecular Gastronomy by Herve This

2009-03-04T15:01:00.000-08:00

When people speak of food, they often speak of how it makes them feel. It's a pretty esoteric thing. Rarely do we speak of food in scientific terms. Unless, of course, we are Herve This.

This, a French chemist, is (along with Nicholas Kurti) considered the founder of the culinary movement known as Molecular Gastronomy. It's a scientific approach to food- thinking in terms of physics rather than feelings. For most of us, the phrase "food science" is associated with processed foods. For a select few, though, food science means exactly what is says- the science of food.

That is the genius of "Molecular Gastronomy". Science equals flavor. This, through careful experimentation, investigates the scientific rational behind many culinary theories and myths: Why do we brown meat before stewing? What makes a Spanish Ham so special? Is there a way to perfectly control the texture of a boiled egg? This, being French, also explains wine appreciation though science.

The downside to "Molecular Gastronomy" is that it is boring. Very boring, in fact. Unless you get excited by chemical equations, you're going to have a hard time getting through parts of this book. Happily, there's a pretty easy solution- skimming!

This, true to his scientific background, writes in a very clean and logical form. None of the 101 chapters exceed three pages. So, if all the science begins to hurt your brain, skip non-essential chapters like "Papillary Cells" and "Algal Fibers" in favor of the bits that you find interesting.

"Molecular Gastronomy" isn't a must buy. But, if you have some spare time, pop into a bookstore or library, and skim a bit. A knowledgeable cook is a better cook, and the knowledge in this book is something you won't find anywhere else.

Chicken with Snow Peas

2009-02-27T18:11:00.001-08:00

Once again, my efforts in the garden were successful. Previous attempts at growing snow peas resulted in just a few pods. This time, thanks to cooler weather (don't grow snow peas in the summer, my friends!), I had a pretty decent harvest.

2 Chicken Breasts, thinly sliced

3 Tbs. Soy Sauce

1 Tbs. Mirin

1 Clove Garlic, crushed

2 Tbs. Corn Starch

1 Tsp. Sesame Oil

2 Cups Snow Peas

2 Cloves Garlic, chopped

Small Pat of Butter

1/4 Cup Chicken Stock

1/2 Tbs. Hoisin Sauce

sub. 1 Tbs. Soy if you don't have it

1 Tsp. Fresh Ginger, crushed

Marinate chicken for 1/2 hour in soy, mirin, garlic, sesame oil, and corn starch.

Heat pan to medium-high, add butter, and saute snow peas & garlic for about 30 seconds. Remove from pan, raise heat to high, and cook chicken for 2 minutes. Return peas/garlic to pan, and add stock/sauce/ginger. Cook for one minute.

Seasoned Salt

2009-02-25T17:39:00.000-08:00

I felt a little bad not sharing all my chili secrets, so I'm going to let you in on one of my secret seasoning salts.

1 Tbs. Kosher Salt

1 Tsp. Sugar

1/4 Tsp. Ground Coriander

1/4 Tsp. Garlic Powder

1/4 Tsp. Chili Powder

1/4 Tsp. Ground Sage -or- Poultry Seasoning

1/8 Tsp. Ground Celery Seed

1/8 Tsp. Onion Powder

This salt is a nice blend of sweet and spicy. Great on chicken and grilled NY strip steaks.

Success!!

2009-02-20T16:30:00.001-08:00

There is something very satisfying in succeeding at something you initially failed at. Last August, I wrote about how failure could be a good thing, because failure is often just a step on the path to success. Well today, after two previous failed attempts, I pulled a couple of carrots from the ground. They were...actual carrots!

So don't give up. Even if you think something is too hard, it's probably not.

Chili

2009-02-17T11:52:00.000-08:00

With all the talk of fresh and seasonal these days, you might forget that it's winter. Fresh and winter don't exactly go hand in hand. Is it possible to be preserved and seasonal?

Chili is the perfect vessel for our experiment. It’s a cowboy dish. Close your eyes. Picture a group of cowboys searching the fields for perfect leaves of sage and delicate edible flowers. If you've ever seen a cowboy movie, I bet you a have pretty silly picture in your mind's eye right now. The great cowboy cooks of yesterday traveled with bags of dried herbs & spices, so that's what we're going to do too.

If you feel like being purely preserved, you could use beef jerky as your protein, though I wouldn’t recommend it. (If you do, use less salt!) I would encourage using grass fed beef. Not only does it taste better, but you’ll also be keeping the cowboy spirit. Cowboys might not have spent hours searching for the most beautiful sprig of rosemary, but they didn’t feed their cows corn, either!

They say a great chili cook never reveals his secrets. Well, not exactly, at least. So all you get is a list. Since I'm a nice guy, I'll give you a little help; ingredients are listed by the amount I used, & I didn't use more than two tablespoons of anything.

2 Lbs. Grass Fed Ground Beef

1 32oz. Can Ground Tomato

Salt

Chili Powder

Crushed Ancho Chili

Cocoa Chili Blend

Garlic Powder

Coriander

Onion Powder

Black Pepper

Italian Seasoning

Ground Sage

Bay Leaves

Worcestershire Sauce

Cinnamon

The Kitchen Sink

Brown beef & remove excess fat. Add half your spice mix, and cook one minute. Add tomato and remaining spice mix. Cook at least 45 minutes, up to 3 hours. Stir occasionally.

*It's best to slowly build the flavor of the chili. Start with less spice than you think you need, then add as necessary.

Blood Orange

2009-02-13T15:03:00.000-08:00

You're probably noticing an abundance of citrus at the market these days. (If you haven't, pick a better market, Buster!)

Blood oranges are fairly new to the American market, but they have been popular in Southern Europe for centuries. Happily, we've gotten on board, so you should be able to find them anywhere. There are three varieties: moro, tarocco, & sanguinello.

As the moro is the most common variety in the States, let's focus on them. The color ranges from burnt orange to nearly black. When you cut the orange open, it actually looks as if it's bleeding. Pretty amazing! Moro oranges taste like someone took a traditional orange, then rubbed it with raspberry and pomegranate sour patch kids.

My favorite way to enjoy a blood orange is to drink it. The fruit can be a bit messy, so save yourself some annoying stain removing and break out your citrus juicer.

*Morro orange juice is wonderful for creating spectacular looking drinks. Grab some gin, and add a little color to your winter drinking!

Chicken Soup (Of the Jews)

2009-02-10T10:54:00.000-08:00

I hadn't been planning on posting two recipes in a row, but I have a feeling the cold spell won't last. Yup, it's actually cold enough in Los Angeles to make soup. (Note: It is NOT cold enough to wear a parka. If you are an Angeleno who breaks out the mittens and scarves when the temperature drops below 65, please email me. We're going to take a little field trip. To Canada.)

I thought this recipe was pretty timeless, but, this time around, I actually found a way to improve it. Amazing.

1 Big Old Chicken

5 Carrots

5 Stalks Celery, including leaves

1 Onion

2 Parsnips

1 Turnip

Salt

Big old chicken? Indeed. The older the bird, the more flavor in the bones. So look for a chicken labeled 'roaster'.

Rinse the chicken. Place it in a large stock pot, and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, and let the scum rise to the top. Remove chicken, and rinse both the bird and the pot. Return the chicken, add remaining ingredients. Cover with more cold water.

Simmer for about 4 hours. Simmer, my friends, not boil. Strain broth. Save the chicken and carrots, they're good eating. Compost the rest.

If you want a really clear broth, you can return the strained soup to the pan, and add two lightly beaten egg whites. Allow to boil for a few minutes, and the extra junk will be picked up by the congealing protein in the egg. Strain this through a cheese cloth. The result will be a nice clear broth. For me, the work/flavor/beauty ratio favors work waaaay to much to make this worthwhile. But, if this sort of thing matters to you, do it!

Now for something special: Right before serving, I chopped a small handful of celery leaves and added them to the soup. Balls. I enjoyed this much more than adding chopped dill, which is the traditional garnish.

Roasted Broccoli Raab

2009-02-05T23:30:00.000-08:00

I'm not sure why I decided to grow broccoli raab (also known as rapini) in my garden, but I'm glad I did. It's a nutty, earthy, and very good. Also, it's closer botanically to the turnip than to broccoli, which I find pretty nifty. Rapini is an excellent source of vitamins a/c/k, as well as potassium, calcium, and iron.

1 Bunch Broccoli Raab

4 Cloves Garlic, chopped

1 Small Hot Pepper (optional)

Olive Oil

Toss ingredients. Roast at 375 for 5 minutes. Easy.

*There are two varieties; Italian and Chinese. The Chinese variety is much less bitter.

Idea: Buy My Movies!

2009-02-02T00:01:00.000-08:00

It's not very often you can say that you have two movies coming out on DVD on the same day. But, tomorrow, I have two DVDs coming out! Hooray! So check them out:

Bottle Shock is based on the famous "Judgement of Paris" wine tasting in 1976. We follow Steve Spurrier's journey to Napa Valley to see what's up with the upstart wine industry there, and the story takes us all the way to the outskirts of Paris, where Chateau Montelena changes wine forever. Beautiful cinematography, underdog story, brilliantly acted. Cast includes Alan Rickman, Bill Pullman, Chris Pine, Eliza Dushku, Freddie Rodriguez, Denis Farina, and me!

Killer Movie is a thrilling slasher film. Written & directed by reality TV veteran Jeff Fisher, Killer Movie takes us behind the scenes of a reality TV film crew stuck in rural North Dakota. When people start disappearing, the shoot takes a surprising turn. Not only does the movie make you scream & laugh, you'll also question why we value what we do in the entertainment industry. Cast includes Jason London, Kaley Cuoco, Leighton Meester, Rob Buckely, Nestor Carbonell, plus great cameos from entertainment celebrities Mary Murphy & J.C. Chasez. On top of that, you'll see me in some wicked awesome velvet tracksuits.

So, on your way home from the farmers' market, go buy some movies! Do it! I'll get a penny.

Snapple, Made from the Best Stuff on ... WHAAAAT??!

2009-01-30T00:01:00.000-08:00

When you're in New York, you notice many things. One of the things you notice most is that Snapple is everywhere. Every store, deli, lunch counter, Snapple is the iced tea of choice. As a tea drinker, this presents a problem, because Snapple is crap. It claims to be made from "the best stuff on Earth". This, as they say, is a lie.

Let's take a look at the ingredients listed on the most common Snapple beverage, Iced Tea with Lemon:

Water, High Fructose Corn Syrup, Citric Acid, Tea, Natural Flavors

Alright, water is a good ingredient. I'll give you that one, Snapple. But, high fructose corn syrup? Please. That's the main flavor in Snapple- cheap sugar. Call me crazy, but I'd like the main flavor in my ice tea to be tea. But tea is listed second to last, meaning, there's not a lot of tea in Snapple. There's more sugar than tea in my iced tea. There's more citric acid than tea!

Citric acid is added to make Iced Tea with Lemon seem...lemony. Why did they do that? Well, the did that because there is no lemon in the iced tea with LEMON! Oh boy. Doesn't seem "best" to me. The "lemon" comes from citric acid and natural flavors. I don't have a problem with that, per se, but, come on, when rating best stuffs, I'd say actual lemon ranks above chemicals made to seem like lemon.

Sadly, most of Snapple's beverages are no better. Various tea and fruit drinks are made of mostly sugar water and flavors, with a teensy bit of tea thrown in to make you feel good. There are a few rare exceptions- the "classic" line, with 3 varieties, are decent. Still too much sugar for me, but only by a wee bit, and the sugar is actually sugar, not HFCS.

Maybe Snapple should change the motto to : "Snapple, Made from a Bunch of Crap and a Little Bit of (Probably Not Very High Quality) Tea". Just a suggestion.

Citrus Chicken

2009-01-28T13:34:00.000-08:00

The farmers' market is overflowing with citrus. So, I thought I'd go a little crazy and mix a few together. The result is similar to a Cuban mojo, but even more...citrusy!

4 Boneless, Skinless Chicken Breasts

2 Oranges

2 Lemons

2 Limes

4 Cloves Garlic, smashed

1 Small Hot Pepper, seeded and chopped

1 Tbs. Mustard

1/4 Cup Olive Oil

2 Pinches Salt & a Wee Bit Fresh Cracked Pepper

1/8 Cup Olive Oil

Juice the citrus. Add remaining ingredients, except olive oil. Using either a hand blender or whisk, slowly add olive oil. You want to go slow in order to incorporate the oil completely. Add chicken to marinade, and refrigerate for about 3 hours. Don't leave it in too long (more than 12 hours), or the acid in the fruit will do very bad things to the texture of the chicken. Like turn it to mush. Bad.

If you're able to, grill the chicken, because grilled chicken just tastes better. If you can't grill (it is, despite being 70 degrees today in Los Angeles, the middle of winter), broil chicken for about 6 minutes per side.

While that's happening, bring marinade to a boil, and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in 1/8 cup olive oil. No need to be quite as careful this time- it's ok if the sauce breaks a little bit. Spoon over chicken while it's cooking, then spoon more when it's finished.

Any leftover chicken makes for a killer addition to salad. The marinade (one boiled) makes for a great dressing. So make extra.

Quaker True Delights

2009-01-26T11:05:00.001-08:00

I was given the opportunity to sample Quaker's new granola bars, True Delights, this weekend. The bars were sent to me via Foodbuzz, as a free test sample. I will do my best to balance my love of free stuff with a fair report. Bars come in 3 flavors.

Dark Chocolate Raspberry Almond: Very good! The balance between sweet/bitter/nutty/fruity was really nice. Dark chocolate nibs add both a deep flavor and nice texture contrast. Could use a few more almonds.

Toasted Coconut Banana Macadamia Nut: Toasted flavor is great. It reminds me of eating breakfast. Very satisfying. Less sweet tasting than the other bars.

Honey Roasted Cashew Mixed Berry: It's a little too sweet. Not
by much, but enough. (Reading the label shows that, indeed, it
contains 2g more sugar than the other flavors.) I think the lack of
cashews throws off the balance. Good flavor mix, but I really only
enjoyed the first 2 bites.

The specific nut/berry/fruit mixture for each bar is added on top instead of being blended in. There could also be a little more of it, especially when it comes to nuts. Sourcing information for ingredients is not available.

Overall, Quaker does a pretty good job with these bars. They're probably the best mass produced granola bars on the market. Recommended for an occasional snack, especially if you're in an area where a (tasty) locally produced bar isn't available.

Chicken in Peppered Tomato Sauce

2009-01-22T17:45:00.000-08:00

1 Lb. Chicken Breast, sliced fairly thin

32 oz Can Crushed Tomatoes

1 Green Bell Pepper, sliced

1 Medium Yellow Onion, sliced

4 Cloves Garlic, smashed

1 Tsp. Chili Powder

or your favorite dried, ground hot pepper

1 Tsp. Sugar

1/4 Tsp. Fresh Grated Nutmeg

1/4 Cup Olive Oil

Flour

Begin by seasoning chicken with salt & pepper. Then dust with a thin coat flour. Very thin. Just a tad. Don't overdo it. Brown on both sides. Remove.

Drain oil from pan, add bell pepper, onion, garlic, nutmeg, & chili. Stir for about a minute, then add tomato, sugar, & chicken. Simmer over medium-high heat for about 20 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in olive oil, and serve. It's nice over angel hair pasta.

The Awesomeness of Youth : Amore Pizza

2009-01-19T14:48:00.001-08:00

There are certain places that will always knock our culinary socks off. The places of our youth. They might not be the greatest in objective terms, but, in the part of our belly that remembers everything, they will always be the best. My last visit to New York (and indeed again this time), I drove to my old home town to eat at Mandarin. This time, through lucky circumstance, I was able to stuff myself at Amore Pizza, the first pizza joint I ever went to.

After wrapping a day on Stuck, I was being driven back to Manhattan by one of the crew dudes. We had to drop someone off in Queens, and, as we drove, I realized we were going to pass Amore. It didn't take much convincing to have the driver make a stop, he's a pizza fan himself.

Amore has been around since 1975, but it's history goes deeper. It began as Gloria's Pizza in downtown Flushing, and has been owned by the same people throughout it's history. The owners, though retired, still visit often, and the place is now run by their sons. Speaking of sons, I'm not the first Klein to have a deep love of Amore. Gloria's (then Amore) was the pizza of my father's youth, too. History runs deep.

Amore serves both slices and whole pies, as well as an assortment of other Italian-American entrees. The pizza is the epitome of New York style- fairly thin crust with a chew, simple tomato sauce, and fat filled cheese that drips down to your elbows. Pat off the excess oil at your own risk! It's of the gas oven variety, not to be confused with the charred crust of the brick/coal oven.

I'm not sure if I can step away and rate this place. Luckily, I've been there with a few people who didn't grow up with it, and they all agree- Amore Pizza is worth the trip to Flushing!

Amore Pizza is located in the Pathmark shopping center, down the street from Whitestone Bowl. Visit them online at amorepizza.org

Pollos El Paisa

2009-01-15T13:32:00.001-08:00

It always amazes me how you can find the most wonderful food in the most unnoticed of places. I'm shooting a film on Long Island, and, on the way home, the director asked me if I liked Colombian food. I told him I'd never tried it, but I was ready to change that. So we headed to Pollos El Paisa in Levittown New York.

I was hit by the wonderful smell of roasted meat when I entered. The place was packed. The diners diverse. Good signs indeed.

My main course was a marinated and grilled skirt steak, served sizzling on a cast iron skillet. It was, well, perfect. The outside charred to a brilliant mahogany, the inside pink. It was mildly spiced, the mix of fat and flavor in wonderful harmony. The steak was served with a sauce that was similar to the Argentinian chimchurri, with chopped onions and roasted red bell pepper substituting for garlic and hot pepper. Buttered rice and fried cassava were served on the side. I also had a crazy tasty guanabana (sour sop) juice. Man, this was one belly-rubbing meal.

Good Food is everywhere. You can, and should (!) make it yourself. You can also follow someone's lead, and find it in places you'd never expect.

Curried Tomato Soup

2009-01-09T18:23:00.001-08:00

28oz Can Crushed Tomatoes
1 1/2 Cups Vegetable Stock

3 Cloves Garlic, crushed
One Medium-Hot Pepper, chopped fine
I Used a Fresno Pepper
1 Tbs. Curry Powder
1/8 Cup Olive Oil

1/2 Cup Milk or Cream
1/4 Cup Fresh Basil, chopped
1/8 Cup Cilantro (Optional), chopped

1 Grilled Cheese Sandwich

Heat olive oil over a medium hot flame. Add garlic, pepper, and curry powder. Heat one minute, stir frequently. Add tomatoes and stock. Heat 20 minutes. Remove from heat, blend in milk. Add basil and, if you'd like, cilantro.

Yeah, it's that easy.

Serve, clearly, with a grilled cheese sandwich.

Tuesday Special: One for the Dogs

2009-01-06T00:25:00.000-08:00

The Farmer’s Thighs

I went to the farmers’ market the other day, planning on picking up a little bit of food for the kitchen. Well, after seeing the beautiful free range chickens on of the vendors had, plans changed a little bit. No longer was I just going to cook dinner for myself- my little Lucy would get a meal out of it, too!

Buying a whole chicken is a great way to cut down on cost. The breasts were $7.99/lb, the thighs alone $6.99/lb. For the whole chicken? $2.49/lb. What a deal!

The breast and leg would be for me, the bones would be frozen for later stock making, but the thighs- the thighs would become a special meal for Lucy.

In addition to two chicken thighs, I used:

One Carrot: Provides vitamin A and fiber, carrots are great for vision

1/2 Apple: Lucy’s favorite fruit. A sweet treat!

1/8 Cup Italian Parsley: Fantastic for sweet breath.

1/8 Cup Olive Oil: For a shiny coat.

One Clove Garlic: This is a little controversial. Garlic, in large quantities, is toxic to dogs. However, in small quantities, it is a natural flea/tick repellent, and boosts the immune system. If you feel funny about adding it, don’t! Consult your vet if you have any questions about garlic.

I cut the carrot, apple, and chicken into half-inch cubes, and chopping the garlic and parsley. I added the carrot and garlic to one cup of water, already boiling in a small pot. After 15 minutes, I added the chicken and apple, then cooked for an additional 5 minutes. After removing from heat, I stirred in the olive oil and parsley. Much to Lucy’s chagrin, she had to wait a few minutes for everything to cool.

The recipe can be multiplied as much as you want, and is great to freeze.

Here’s a time saving tip: Cut the carrots and garlic first, while they are cooking, prep the rest of the ingredients!

Dedication

2008-12-31T14:37:00.001-08:00

What would you do on a super-cold, snowy day? Set up a stand in the local farmers' market? That's what quite a few vendors did today in the Union Square Greenmarket in Manhattan. With the wind blowing, snow falling, and most of the city (except for the schmucks waiting in Times Square...seriously, I have no idea why people think that's fun...) taking naps, local food purveyors still lined the market.

Sure, it was a bit more sparse than a bright summer's day. But you could still find everything you need for an amazing meal. Two grass fed beef vendors, sustainable poultry & pork, apples aplenty, root veggies, squash, preserves, wine...

The point is, if these guys and gals can drag their asses into Manhattan & stand in the cold/snow, we can all make a little effort to eat locally. It's a lot easier than what they're doing. So let's do that.

I'm going to have a Ronnybrook Farm yogurt, and a mackintosh apple (75 cents a pound, take that megamart!), and get ready to get hammered. Happy New Year.

Home of Chicken and Waffles

2008-12-29T12:04:00.000-08:00

I was exploring the Jack London Square farmers' market yesterday (good market!), and a wonderful smell was in the air. After much exploring, my nose led me to...Home of Chicken and Waffles. Now, I might be a Yankee & a Jew, but I love soul food like a fella from Mississippi. As soon as I walked through the door, I knew I was in the right place.

The Home of Chicken and Waffles began as a franchise of the famous Roscoe's Chicken and Waffles. In 2004, the family decided to spilt from their parents and take the reigns themselves. This was a smart move. The strong family ties are evident on the wall- each menu item is named after a family member, their portraits (with the dish) are painted on the wall by a local artist.

The food is soul food at is best. Although the protein is limited mostly to fried chicken, the array of sides more than makes up for the lack of smothered pork chops. Truth be told, the fried chicken is so good that you might run the risk of missing it if you had other options! Some of the best fried chicken I've ever had in fact! It's crisp, juicy, sweet, and without a hint of greasy. As for the sides, it's a hit list of soul food champions: grits, mac 'n cheese, yams, greens, peas. All menu items are accompanied with a suggested side or two. While you can swap sides for 50 cents, you probably won't feel the need to do so. Oh, and the waffles? Heavenly.

Service at Home of Chicken and Waffles is fantastic. Personable, fast, and funny. They make you feel like you're popping by their house for a meal. Indeed, the diverse clientele all seem equally at home there. Hipsters sit side by side with families on their way home from church. Old and young enjoy the sweet sweet chicken.

I believe the join is always open, as hours aren't listed and they tout themselves as the perfect place to go after a night out in downtown Oakland. I couldn't agree more.

Latkes!

2008-12-26T13:18:00.003-08:00

Latkes are potato pancakes traditional to Jewish cuisine, and enjoyed by many many Jews during the festival of Chanukah. They are damn good.

4 Russet Potatoes

1/2 - 3/4 Onion

1 Cup Flour

2 Eggs

Salt

Fat

Peel and grate the potatoes. Squeeze grated potatoes as hard as you can, removing the starchy water. You could also use a salad spinner. This step is important, removing the moisture & potato starch will improve the texture of your latkes. Grate onion.

Beat the eggs, add all the ingredients. Except the fat of course. Then again, if you want to stir a little chicken or duck fat in there, be my guest.

Now we fry. How do we fry? Well, let me count the ways. Latkes are traditionally cooked in chicken fat. I say go for it! Seriously, you eat these things once or twice a year, so why not go crazy?! If you opt out of the chicken fat (maybe just mix in a little bit....?), use vegetable oil. It won't be quite as amazing, though I suppose your heart will be happier.

So, heat whatever fat you like to 360 degrees (the latkes should immediately bubble). Form mix into cakes 3-4 inches across, 1.5 inches thick. Don't get out a ruler or anything, you'll get the hang of it! Fry for three minutes per side. Latkes are also a great candidate for deep frying. 4 minutes in the fryer will do it!

*Don't be alarmed if the latke mixture changes color. It's just the potato oxidizing. Removing the potato water will help stop this, as will the egg. Keeping it covered helps, too. Still, your mix will turn brown, maybe even grey. Don't stress it. It's cosmetic, and the beautiful golden brown crust that forms when you fry will make it disappear.

Savory

2008-12-22T00:01:00.000-08:00

Savory is an often overlooked herb, especially in American cuisine. There are two major types of savory: summer and winter. Summer savory can be found during the ... summer! Winter savory can be found ... anytime. (Summer savory is an annual herb, winter savory is a perennial shrub, much like rosemary.)

Summer savory has a more delicate flavor/texture, better for finishing dishes. Winter savory is more hearty, and can be used as a base flavor for longer cooked dishes. Makes sense, doesn't it? One cooks things longer when the weather is colder.

The flavor is a mild cross between thyme & rosemary, both botanical cousins. It can be used in the same way you would use either herb, and is especially popular in Italian long cooked dishes. Medicinally, savory is known to aid in digestion, and is rumored to be an aphrodisiac.

(Breakfast) Beef Stew

2008-12-17T00:01:00.000-08:00

This is my take on a recipe first published in Marion Harland's Common Sense for the Household (1884), updated in The American Heritage Cookbook (1964, edited by Helen McCully). I've updated it to suit my taste, and you should feel free to play with it, too. This was, without a doubt, the best beef stew I've made.

2 Lbs. Beef, cubed

Grass fed beef preferred!

2 Tbs. Flour

1 Tbs. Fat, your choice, butter preferred

1 Small Onion, sliced

2 Carrots, quartered

3 Ribs Celery, quartered

1 Parsnip, quartered

1 Small Green Bell Pepper, quartered

3 Cloves Garlic, crushed

1 1/2 Cup Beef Broth

3/4 Cup Water

1 Tbs. Freshly Cracked Black Pepper

4 Sprigs Savory

6 Sprigs Marjoram

6 Sprigs Thyme

1 Tsp. Salt

1 Tbs. Mustard

1 Tbs. Worcestershire Sauce

Juice of 1/2 Lemon

2 Sprigs Savory

4 Sprigs Each Thyme & Marjoram

Salt

Begin by coating beef with flour. Melt fat in pan, then add beef to brown. After beef browns, add vegetables. Cook 5 minutes.

This step is optional, but recommended. Not only does it deepen the flavor of the dish, the melting fat & flour form a roux that will thicken the stew. If you decide not to brown, omit the flour.

Add remaining ingredients in the top part of the list. You'll save yourself some time (thyme!) later by either tying the herbs together with twine, or putting them in a tea bag. See, the herbs are woody, and not especially tasty to eat, so- better to keep them in one place and remove them when the dish is done.

Bring to a boil. Lower heat to simmer. Walk away for 1.5 - 3 hours. You can stir from time to time, but that's all the work you need to do.

In the last five minutes, add the remaining ingredients. Again, it's a good idea to keep the herbs together. Taste, and add salt as necessary. Serve over some kind of simple starch- rice, potato, noodles.

As with all dishes of this kind, it's only going to get better with a day or two in the fridge. Also, don't be put off by the long list of ingredients. There isn't a lot of work to do, I promise. The assembly took 20 minutes, including the browning.

Why is it called a breakfast stew? I have no idea! Maybe this was breakfast in 1884.

Read: This Organic Life

2008-12-15T12:12:00.000-08:00

I'm not sure how this book managed to escape my radar for so long. "This Organic Life," written by Joan Dye Gussow, is a terrific read.

Warning: If you don't own/have access to somewhere you can grow things, this book can be frustrating. Here's the thing: Ms. Gussow loves to garden. She loves it so much, that you're going to want to grow things too. And not just a few things. You might find yourself at the garden center enviously eying people buying a fig tree, or a grape vine. You might find yourself secretly planting shallots between your landlord's flowers. You might find yourself going to Home Depot and buying a GIANT box, then filling it with hundreds of pounds of dirt....

Yeah. That's probably going to happen. Why? Well, it's a very sensible (and wonderful!) thing to grow your own food. Joan Dye Gussow's tale of suburban gardening is a terrific read. Gussow manages to inspire without preaching. She might live a life sustained almost entirely of things she grows, but she never expects the reader to. This isn't a holier than though type of sustainable living read. Rather, it's pure inspiration.

Review: Dan Tana's

2008-12-08T00:17:00.000-08:00

It's not often I feel compelled to write a restaurant review, but my family and I really enjoyed this place, so there it is.

Change is good. We can all agree on that. However, some places should always stay the same. Dan Tana's has embraced that philosophy fully.

Basically, picture a stereotypical East Coast, Italian American restaurant circa 1973. You know: red checkered table cloth, Chianti bottles hanging from the ceiling, dim lighting, 8454355 lbs of garlic...

Warning: If you hate the idea of that, if you think that today's Italian food should be all butternut squash ravioli in sage brown butter, you're going to hate this place. Fine. Hate it. Because, frankly, the place is a little cramped and I'd be happier if you weren't there.

For the rest of us, this is a little bit of heaven. In a city that often struggles with authenticity, Dan Tana's is dripping with it. This place isn't cliche- it's where the cliche started.

Service is attentive. Fast, helpful, and with a little bit of attitude that lets you know you're in good hands.

The food? Well, aside from the forgettable prosciutto and melon, it was all fantastic. Amazing. Get what you'd expect to get at a classic Italian joint: something parmesan, something big fat steak, something covered in garlic and butter.

Happiness.

Chicken Lew Cashew

2008-12-05T17:41:00.000-08:00

Maybe it's not the smartest idea to try to make a traditional style Chicken with Cashews without doing much research. Or, maybe it is. Whatever I made, it didn't quite match what you'd expect from the dish. Nonetheless, it was pretty damn good.

2 Chicken Breasts, diced

1 Carrot, diced

1 Small Onion, diced

2 Ribs Celery, diced

2 Cloves Garlic, chopped

1 Small Nug Ginger, chopped

1 Small Chili Pepper of Fire, seeded and chopped

1 Cup Raw Cashews

1 Tbs. Soy Sauce

1/2 Cup Chicken Stock

2 Tbs Hoisin Sauce

2 Tbs. Mirin

2 Tbs. Soy Sauce

1 Tbs. Rice Wine Vinegar

1 Tbs. Corn Starch

Marinate chicken in soy sauce for 15 minutes to an hour.

Quickly brown chicken, say for about 2 minutes. Remove from pan. Add cashews and cook for about two minutes. Add the veggies and cook for another minute. Return chicken to pan, cook for...another minute! Add sauce, and cook till it thickens, about...a minute! Serve.

Nobel Son

2008-12-03T17:45:00.001-08:00

If you're looking for something fun to do this weekend, why not see me in a movie?! Seeing movies is always fun, and seeing me in a movie is even better.

Nobel Son is a thrilling dark comedy. Kidnapping, car chases, theoretic chemistry. With a cast that includes Alan Rickman, Eliza Dushku, Danny DeVito, Bill Pullman, Bryan Greenberg, & Shawn Hatosy, you know you're in for a treat.

Check out the Nobel Son website for all the details. It's playing nationwide.

Oh, and it's (kind of sort of) food related, too. How? Well, you need to check it out.

Idea: Don't Be Absurd

2008-12-01T18:19:00.001-08:00

"We eat with our eyes." It's cliche, but true. So why would the people at Sevan Produce decide to add a giant cigarette discount ad atop their food flyer?

Now, I'm no advertising expert. But, if watching Mad Men has taught me anything, it's that you should drink a steady diet of highballs all day long. This way, you're drunk enough to call a person out on their craaaaazy ad scheme. Clearly, someone at Seven isn't drinking nearly enough, because this is just absurd.

Nothing says quality like a cheap (giant monoculture tobacco) smoke.

Turkey Leftover Hot Sandwich

2008-11-29T14:54:00.000-08:00

Everyone loves a hot sandwich. They're even better when you're a bit hammered. And they're best when you're a bit hammered and you have leftover Thanksgiving turkey.

Leftover Turkey

Good Bread

BBQ Sauce

Pesto

Your Favorite Cheese

Bell Pepper, sliced thin

Onion or Shallot, sliced real thin

It's pretty easy to assemble. Slather a thin layer of BBQ sauce on the bread. Turkey on top of that. Pesto sauce (I made my own quick sauce from frozen basil, olive oil, garlic, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese) on turkey. Thin slices of bell pepper & onion atop the pesto. Finally, a layer of cheese to top it off. I used swiss.

Place the sandwich in the oven. Bake until cheese is bubbly and golden. Note: This would make a wicked good panini, too.

Thanksgiving

2008-11-28T15:19:00.000-08:00

What a great tradition- cook massive amounts of tasty food (with massive amounts of butter), eat until you're going to burst, eat more just to prove you won't, then try really hard not to take a nap, only to pass out on the couch.

This year was a great success. Nearly everything was produced within 150 miles of my house. I like that. It's good for the planet, and good for the belly. Fresh, local food has more flavor than you can imagine.

Let's start with the turkey. Free range, freshly slaughtered, and damn tasty. I brined it overnight in a solution of salt, sugar, apple cider vinegar, ground sage, dried rosemary/thyme/bay, and peppercorns. The brine will keep your turkey tender, and flavor it to the bone. I stuffed it with carrot, celery, onion, garlic, and lemon. Coated the skin, inside and out, with melted butter blended with duck fat and sage. Yeah, duck fat. Do it.

I had a pretty brilliant idea. I elevated the turkey on a couple of bricks, and slow roasted it at 325. Left a pan underneath to catch the juice. This allowed air to circulate all around the turkey. The result was a very crispy skin, and a ton of pan juice, which I turned into a swell gravy.

The highlight of the meal, for sure, was the sweet potato. I used two varieties of tuber, sweet potato and yam, both picked up at the farmers' market. Roasted in the oven, passed through a sieve, then enhanced with butter, cream, maple syrup, cinnamon, & fresh nutmeg. I managed to forget to buy pecans, so I went with the traditional marshmallow topping. The pecans, though they would have been great, weren't missed. This was something special.

The table was rounded out by a carrot & apple salad, cranberry sauce (shoot me, but I prefer the canned stuff. Actually, don't shoot me, most of you do. I did get a brand without corn syrup, which was smart), stuffing, and roasted green beans (with bacon!). There might have only been 4 of us, but we ate like 40.

Special thanks to Mom, who acted as both soux-chef and chief dishwasher. Thanks especially for the dishwashing! (Seriously, Mom kept the place tidy all day long.)

The Apple, specifically the Arkansas Black

2008-11-26T00:01:00.000-08:00

If, for some wacky reason, you're still buying peaches/nectarines/grapes, stop. The season is over my friends, even here in California. Time to spend some time with your old friend, the apple.

Yes, we can get apples year round. And, unlike most other fruits that have been shipped long distances, they're pretty good all year. Apples, when cooled properly, store really well, and that's a very good thing. But, do we really need to have them shipped from far far away? We don't. And, thankfully, we don't have to. Apples grow throughout the country, and, with a quick stop at the farmers' market, you might find something interesting.

In my case, it was the Arkansas Black, an heirloom variety dating back to the 1870s. What a great find! It's texture is super crisp, the flavor mostly sweet with just the right balance of tartness. It's perfect out of hand, tasty chopped & added to a salad.

You might not be able to find this variety, but, I bet you'll find something you haven't tried. Yup, I'm a fan of the Fuji apple, but it was nice to try something different!

Here's a quick tip: Notice how the top of the apple is all brown? I thought maybe this was a sign of not-so-goodness, but, it turns out, it's just the opposite. That's the pollen mark. The bigger the mark, the sweeter the apple. Who knew?! Great tip, and very true. That apple in the above pic was sweet indeed.

Making Yogurt

2008-11-24T00:01:00.000-08:00

A few days ago Karen updated her facebook status to something like "Thinking about making yogurt from scratch. Wondering if I'm becoming a hippie." Well, I'd argue that anyone that titles their blog "Off the (Meat) Hook" probably is in no danger of becoming a hippie. I think she's safe. More interestingly, we agreed to both conduct yogurt making experiments.

So I experimented. The result was not a terrible failure, as I had first thought, but, I wouldn't call it a grand success either. What happened was:

I started with whole raw milk. Since the first step was to heat the milk to 180F, I felt it would be an interesting and wholesome choice to go with unpasteurized milk. If you're at all freaked out by this, use the pasteurized stuff, by all means. I've never tried raw milk before, and you can taste the difference. It tastes somewhat fresher and cleaner, if that makes sense.

Why heat the milk to 180? Well, you want to kill off any unwanted bacteria, so you can introduce your own desired bacteria. This is best done over a double boiler, to prevent scorching, but I used a regular pan and that worked just fine. Heat to 180, once it reaches that, remove and cool.

Now comes the tricky part. Really tricky. And, not terribly fun. You need to monitor the milk as it cools. Yeah. Annoying. The goal, a temperature between 108 - 112 degrees. Why? Well, that's the temperature that the good yogurt making bacteria does best.

So, when you get there, which will take tedious time, stir in two tablespoons of organic plain yogurt. I know, why not just eat that yogurt instead?! Well, maybe you should. But for the sake of the experiment, stir it in. This introduces yogurt cultures to the milk, starting the process of fermentation. If you decide you love making yogurt, you can save a small part of each batch to use as a starter for the next one.

Now comes the tricky part. Really tricky. And, not terribly fun. Wait, did I just say that? I did. Like I said, this is a tedious experiment. Now, you have to keep the fermenting pre-yogurt at the same 108 - 112 degrees for 4-6 hours. Fun!!!!!

I took my warm milkgurt and put it in the oven. Luckily, I have an old timey 1950s gas oven. The pilot flame keeps the inside of the oven at about...110 degrees! Lucky me. So, I just left it there, stirring and taking the temp from time to time. After 4 hours, nothing. After 6, it smelt and tasted a little sour (good) but the consistency remained about the same (bad). So, I went out for a beer.

Two hours later, not much had changed. The whatever it was now became a bit thicker, but not very yogurt-like. I figured what would be done was done, so I removed it from the oven and put it in the fridge.

The next day, things looked better. A decent sized pool of watery whey had formed on the top. I poured this off, stirred the mix, and, found I had indeed made something that kind of resembled yogurt. It was a little more sour than the commercial yogurt. I added a fair amount of honey and agave, and it was pretty good. Grainier texture than I would have wanted, but pretty good.

Was this worth it? Probably not. The flavor, once sweetened a bit, was slightly better than commercial yogurt. The texture was not. This was a lot of tedious work. There are very good small batch yogurts for sale just about everywhere. I'm going to continue to buy those.

Maybe Karen will have better luck. She's much more science-minded than I am. (Her dad is some kind of world famous neuroscientist, and that clearly has rubbed off.) Also, she's a dirty hippie.

I should add that whatever it was I made was fine with my belly. So, although I didn't make perfect yogurt, I didn't make myself sick, either!

Goodness

2008-11-21T23:53:00.001-08:00

Because, sometimes when you're out, you need to have a bacon wrapped hot dog (with peppers & onions).

Beats!

2008-11-20T17:46:00.001-08:00

Please enjoy this photo of "beats" while I try to beat my mac into working again.

Technique: How to Render Duck Fat

2008-11-17T16:47:00.000-08:00

Let's begin by talking about the giant elephant in the room. Cooking with duck fat is not for everyday cooking. Duck fat is not healthy, at least in the unclogged artery sense of the word. It is, however, amazingly flavorful, and nice to have on hand to add something special from time to time. Also, if you're going to cook duck, might as well keep the fat!

If you're roasting duck, you can add trimmed fat/skin to the bottom of the roasting pan, and cover that with water. Excess fat will drain from the duck, adding to the mix. Make sure that the fat remains covered with water. When duck is finished cooking, strain the fat/water mixture into a smaller pot.

*If you're not roasting duck, and just happen to have trimmed fat/skin from previous duck cooking in the freezer, place directly into a small pot, and cover with water.

Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer. Allow water to cook out. This will take about 45 minutes. The mixture will gradually become more golden as the water evaporates. It will bubble, slowly at first, then increasing. Once the bubbles bubble at a steady quick pace, remove from heat. Strain through a fine sieve, and store in an airtight jar.

Duck fat will keep in the fridge for at least a year. Sweet! You'll know it's turned bad when it smells...bad. Before that happens, it's going to smell like heaven.

Bacon Filled Meatloaf

2008-11-12T18:23:00.001-08:00

1 lb ground beef, grass-fed 15% fat

1/2 lb ground turkey, mix of dark and white

1 cup ground tomato

3/4 cup breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon onion powder

1/2 tabelspoon salt

1/2 tablespoon pepper

2 tablespoons worcestershire sauce

6 thick slices of bacon

6 thick slices of bacon!

Ketchup

Fried Onions, optional

I was having a conversation the other day about the need for another post about bacon. Somehow the subject veered to meatloaf, and I thought, 'great, meatloaf often has bacon on top of it!' That was when the light bulb went off. Yes, meatloaf often has bacon on top, but I've never seen a recipe with bacon INSIDE! Thus, a new and exciting dish was born. Bacon Filled Meatloaf.

Begin by dicing the first 6 slices of bacon. Remove some of the extra fat. Add to a frying pan over medium-high heat. Render bacon until it just begins to crisp, about 3-4 minutes. This will help the texture of the meatloaf greatly. Drain rendered fat, saving it for another day.

Place the almost crisp bacon in a large bowl, and add all other ingredients save the other bacon slices, ketchup, and fried onions. Mix well (best done with your hands!), and let rest for an hour at room temperature. Don't skip the resting. Trust me, you'll be sad if you do. The mix needs time to let the breadcrumbs and meat absorb all the seasonings. If you don't let it rest, you'll end up with a strange textured loaf and a pool of sauce at the bottom. See? Sadness.

Put rested mixture in a loaf pan. Put loaf pan in a 375 degree oven. After a half hour, remove from oven and carefully drain most of the melted fat. Cover top of loaf with a layer of ketchup, then cover pan with foil. Return to oven and cook additional 30 minutes, removing foil for the final five.

At some point, cook the additional slices of bacon.

Rest, covered, for 10-15 minutes. Again, you'll be sad if you don't do this. After resting, cut into slices to serve. Top with a little more ketchup or crushed tomatoes, just a dab. Top that with extra bacon (crumbled), and, if you'd like, some canned fried onions.

Note: This one is still a work in progress. I'm going to play a bit with fresh onions and garlic, though I do like the convenience of using powdered. This was made using thick sliced bacon, so if you only have thin, use more.

Meatloaf is a million times better the next day. I'm not saying you have to wait a whole day to dig in, just that you should dig in again the next day.