Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Read This (Extra Credit Edition) : Molecular Gastronomy by Herve This


When people speak of food, they often speak of how it makes them feel.  It's a pretty esoteric thing.  Rarely do we speak of food in scientific terms.  Unless, of course, we are Herve This.

This, a French chemist, is (along with Nicholas Kurti) considered the founder of the culinary movement known as Molecular Gastronomy.  It's a scientific approach to food- thinking in terms of physics rather than feelings. For most of us, the phrase "food science" is associated with processed foods.  For a select few, though, food science means exactly what is says- the science of food.

That is the genius of "Molecular Gastronomy".  Science equals flavor.  This, through careful experimentation, investigates the scientific rational behind many culinary theories and myths: Why do we brown meat before stewing? What makes a Spanish Ham so special?  Is there a way to perfectly control the texture of a boiled egg? This, being French, also explains wine appreciation though science.

The downside to "Molecular Gastronomy" is that it is boring.  Very boring, in fact.  Unless you get excited by chemical equations, you're going to have a hard time getting through parts of this book.  Happily, there's a pretty easy solution- skimming!  

This, true to his scientific background, writes in a very clean and logical form.  None of the 101 chapters exceed three pages.  So, if all the science begins to hurt your brain, skip non-essential chapters like "Papillary Cells" and "Algal Fibers" in favor of the bits that you find interesting.  

"Molecular Gastronomy" isn't a must buy.  But, if you have some spare time, pop into a bookstore or library, and skim a bit.  A knowledgeable cook is a better cook, and the knowledge in this book is something you won't find anywhere else. 

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